arrow Posted August 31, 2006 Share Posted August 31, 2006 so i have a question, it may seem simple enough for some but i am slow sometiimes. my climbing partner and i want to bring a third along on multi-pitch trad routs and would love some fresh insight into the set up for the climb. any one have any wisdom to share? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TrogdortheBurninator Posted August 31, 2006 Share Posted August 31, 2006 2 half ropes and an autoblocking belay device (reverso, b52, atc guide). Leader leads, then belays up both followers staggered by maybe 15ft. The third can do useful things like flaking ropes, getting food and wate, taking pictures, etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
layton Posted August 31, 2006 Share Posted August 31, 2006 tie a butterfly knot in the rope and have both climb together. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
high_on_rock Posted August 31, 2006 Share Posted August 31, 2006 Two ropes. The first and second climb as though they are alone, the second trails the extra rope. Upon reaching the top of a pitch, the second anchors rope #2, and the third climber does a top-rope solo while the other two climbers start the next pitch. Â To rap quickly, run the ropes through the anchor and back it up with a knot. Two rap at once on single strands, when both are off rappel, pull the back up knot and the third person raps. Â Quick, easy, and efficient. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fenderfour Posted August 31, 2006 Share Posted August 31, 2006 2 half ropes and an autoblocking belay device (reverso, b52, atc guide). Leader leads, then belays up both followers staggered by maybe 15ft. The third can do useful things like flaking ropes, getting food and wate, taking pictures, etc. Â I second this method. I have used it quite often to good effect. Â You can use single ropes, but it is a lot more effort for the leader to pull them through the device. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris Posted August 31, 2006 Share Posted August 31, 2006 I also recommend this method - it enables a team of three to climb as fast as a team of two. It also means on climbs that require 60m rappels you don't have to carry an extra cord, making a team of three sometimes more desirable than two. Â I still use single cords more often than not, but I use skinny singles (9.2mm or so). Making sure both cords are the same length helps with management. When using a pair of singles, have the leader clip both cords into protection in order to protect the second and triple, but only be belayed on one cord to minimize forces on the protection. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted August 31, 2006 Share Posted August 31, 2006 All depends on HOW MANY PITCHES you are doing? If is only a couple then climb regularly, if its 4 or more, then try one of the usful tips metioned above. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
catbirdseat Posted August 31, 2006 Share Posted August 31, 2006 Two ropes. The first and second climb as though they are alone, the second trails the extra rope. Upon reaching the top of a pitch, the second anchors rope #2, and the third climber does a top-rope solo while the other two climbers start the next pitch. To rap quickly, run the ropes through the anchor and back it up with a knot. Two rap at once on single strands, when both are off rappel, pull the back up knot and the third person raps.  Quick, easy, and efficient. This requires a special device for the third, such as a GriGri or other, and he must self-belay. This would be slow unless the climbing were easy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TrogdortheBurninator Posted August 31, 2006 Share Posted August 31, 2006 To rap quickly, run the ropes through the anchor and back it up with a knot. Two rap at once on single strands, when both are off rappel, pull the back up knot and the third person raps. Â This is a great idea for making safe simul raps. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
counterfeitfake Posted August 31, 2006 Share Posted August 31, 2006 the third climber does a top-rope solo while the other two climbers start the next pitch. This requires a special device for the third, such as a GriGri or other, and he must self-belay. This would be slow unless the climbing were easy. Â Or a clove hitch... Â Anyway, it might be slow for him but it's not slow for the group, because you're making the work parallel instead of serial. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
111 Posted August 31, 2006 Share Posted August 31, 2006 for easy long routes you can have the middle person on the line with a prussic they slide with them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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