tri climbing

[arrow]

so i have a question, it may seem simple enough for some but i am slow sometiimes. my climbing partner and i want to bring a third along on multi-pitch trad routs and would love some fresh insight into the set up for the climb. any one have any wisdom to share?

[TrogdortheBurninator]

2 half ropes and an autoblocking belay device (reverso, b52, atc guide). Leader leads, then belays up both followers staggered by maybe 15ft. The third can do useful things like flaking ropes, getting food and wate, taking pictures, etc.

[layton]

tie a butterfly knot in the rope and have both climb together.

[high_on_rock]

Two ropes. The first and second climb as though they are alone, the second trails the extra rope. Upon reaching the top of a pitch, the second anchors rope #2, and the third climber does a top-rope solo while the other two climbers start the next pitch.

 

To rap quickly, run the ropes through the anchor and back it up with a knot. Two rap at once on single strands, when both are off rappel, pull the back up knot and the third person raps.

 

Quick, easy, and efficient.

[fenderfour]

2 half ropes and an autoblocking belay device (reverso, b52, atc guide). Leader leads, then belays up both followers staggered by maybe 15ft. The third can do useful things like flaking ropes, getting food and wate, taking pictures, etc.

 

I second this method. I have used it quite often to good effect.

 

You can use single ropes, but it is a lot more effort for the leader to pull them through the device.

[chris]

I also recommend this method - it enables a team of three to climb as fast as a team of two. It also means on climbs that require 60m rappels you don't have to carry an extra cord, making a team of three sometimes more desirable than two.

 

I still use single cords more often than not, but I use skinny singles (9.2mm or so). Making sure both cords are the same length helps with management. When using a pair of singles, have the leader clip both cords into protection in order to protect the second and triple, but only be belayed on one cord to minimize forces on the protection.

[kevbone]

All depends on HOW MANY PITCHES you are doing? If is only a couple then climb regularly, if its 4 or more, then try one of the usful tips metioned above.

[catbirdseat]

Two ropes. The first and second climb as though they are alone, the second trails the extra rope. Upon reaching the top of a pitch, the second anchors rope #2, and the third climber does a top-rope solo while the other two climbers start the next pitch.

 

To rap quickly, run the ropes through the anchor and back it up with a knot. Two rap at once on single strands, when both are off rappel, pull the back up knot and the third person raps.

 

Quick, easy, and efficient.

This requires a special device for the third, such as a GriGri or other, and he must self-belay. This would be slow unless the climbing were easy.

[TrogdortheBurninator]

To rap quickly, run the ropes through the anchor and back it up with a knot. Two rap at once on single strands, when both are off rappel, pull the back up knot and the third person raps.

 

This is a great idea for making safe simul raps. Thanks!

[counterfeitfake]

the third climber does a top-rope solo while the other two climbers start the next pitch.

This requires a special device for the third, such as a GriGri or other, and he must self-belay. This would be slow unless the climbing were easy.

 

Or a clove hitch...

 

Anyway, it might be slow for him but it's not slow for the group, because you're making the work parallel instead of serial.

[111]

for easy long routes you can have the middle person on the line with a prussic they slide with them.