How strong should my sport anchors be

[111]

I've got some 3/16 in., 800 lb test chain and I was wondering if that strength would be suitable for use in building a permanent top anchor for a sport climb.

If I were to put several washers on the outside of the chain and then put the bolt into the rock would that work for a toprope anchor?

[whidbey]

no

[G-spotter]

3/16??? That's dental floss you cheapskate!

 

And I bet it isn't even stainless.

 

People placing junk like that keep the ASCA in business fixing their fuckups with decent anchors.

[billcoe]

G-spotter said:

3/16??? That's dental floss you cheapskate!

 

And I bet it isn't even stainless.

 

People placing junk like that keep the ASCA in business fixing their fuckups with decent anchors.

 

Well you didn't say where you plan on locating this stuff. Certainly an isolated spot in the desert would be different than a heavily trafficed area west of the mountains in the rain zone.

-But-

 

Last anchor stuff I did was maybe 3/8" or possibly 5/16" type 316 stainless steel.

 

Rock and Ice did a pull test and suprisingly found out that short toproping falls could generate forces up to 1300 lbs in their tests.

 

Don't you think that if you had a heavier person like Ivan falling and dogging you could just about yank that 3/16" chain apart? Unless you are planning on linking 5 or 6 of them together or haivng hangers with links to connect the chain to them that is, so people can clip the hangers, but then you don't need the chain. Peole can clip off with draws.

 

I think that 5/16 diameter stainless chain should be about the minimum for any new anchor application, unless traditionally at that specific location people have been putting in their own gear, and then you should just leave it alone and use gear like everyone else. But if you are doing a new line, don't you want it to last and no one to get injured in 5 years when that thin chain has rusted about 1/4 way through?

 

An alternative is to use the thick Metolius hangers which you can rap directly off of.

 

Here's a chain link...so to speak, listing strengths, for you to peruse.

chain proof load link

 

Good luck!