Winter Climbing?

[Norman_Clyde]

Royal Basin ought to be a fine winter destination, with Deception and Fricaba being easily accessible ascents, though the valley has definite avalanche potential, especially into Surprise Basin just E. of Deception. The approach is 6 miles, as I recall, very steady slow incline the whole way, with a few old glacier steps at the top. I spoke to Olympic Mountaineering a few weeks back and they said the forest road is not always passable in winter, being unmaintained and sometimes snowy even at that low elevation (around 1000 feet I think). They suggested Deer Park as a good jumping off point. But I'd favor Constance myself.

[bonehead]

I was wondering when someone was going to catch the Norman Clyde reference....

If you're the REAL Norman Clyde (who allegedly died in a Bishop rest-home back in the late 70's, early 80's)... your pack contains an iron frying pan, several hardback volumes by the classic philosophers, a big bag of flour for biscuits, a slab of bacon,AND you solo all your routes with a hemp rope and hobnail boots.

If you're a pseudo-Clyde, then you've got a GREAT name-sake, a man I've admired for many years, and who holds first-ascent honors in the Sierras...

[bonehead]

Oh, and on the topic --

I'd recommend the south peak of The Brothers also. A great two-day climb (unless you're a monster-snow plow), made even better when covered by snow. This year, there's probably snow all the way down to the creek-fork, so that's most likely the last dry (somewhat) bivy site. From there, a great climb that goes over all the scree and alder-slash you must normally contend with in the summer.

The glissade down is one of the best around, and saves MUCHO time.

Mt Constance is next on my list - you're all making it sound excellent, particularly in winter...

[Norman_Clyde]

I've only been up the Brothers in summer, but I think I'd get fed up with the long approach for what the whole climb is worth. But either Constance or South Brother in winter should offer more challenge and a much smaller crowd than regular season. If anyone wants to seriously plan a trip to Constance, send me an email.

[philfort]

Does anyone know if this is Mt Constance?

[Norman_Clyde]

Beats me. I never saw it from that angle. But I don't think Constance has that sharp a summit ridge.

[philfort]

Well, whatever it is, it looks "fun" to try and climb.

[Norman_Clyde]

I think that steep Olympic ridge might be the Ridge of Gargoyles northwest of Constance. Take a look at the photo on page 125 of the climber's guide.

[W]

I can't tell if that is Constance either, but Constance actually does have a pretty exposed, gendarmed/knife-edge summit ridge. I camped about 200 feet from the top once, a great experience.

Norman Clyde- great name. He was to the Sierras what Beckey and Exum were to their respective areas- though personality-wise and stylistically I have a feeling he much more closely resembled Exum. There's only one Beckey. I used to read about Clyde's exploits while growing up in California and studying Sierra climbing and exploration history, for me also he was a great hero. He died, incidentally, in 1972. Supposedly he was a school teacher in Independence and got in trouble one time for shooting a gun off to scare some kids playing Halloween pranks on him. So maybe he had some curmudgeonly qualities about him then.

[W]

You know, it just occurred to me that the peak Philfort has pictured just might be Inner Constance, across the valley to the west of Constance- that peak is similar to Constance, a long, north-south trending ridge-shaped peak that if I remember was quite jagged and knife-edged. Not positive that is it, but it really looks like it.

[Norman_Clyde]

I've been to the top of the north chute and to Crystal Pass, as well as looking at Constance and Inner Constance from the summit of the Brothers and Mt Mystery, and my impression is that both mountains are more blocky-- they have some sharp ridges but at the summit the steepness is not sustained. I will hope to have a better perspective in another month. This certainly must have been a fine climbing weekend-- I hope some of you were able to take advantage, unlike myself.

[David_Parker]

The basin you approach for Constance is called Avalanche Canyon (for good reason). Right now (12/26/01) though I'd imagine it pretty safe. There are some really ggod routes on the left side, The Thumb, The Pyramid, The Stasis, C-141 (site of a plane crash), and Inner Constance. I went up and bivied in a snow cave and did a few of these once. Use caution on the terrible traverse if avalanches a possibility. Also, try going over to the east face of Mt Angeles, going up one of the narrow gullies and then traversing the ridge to the true summit. Its lots of fun. Elinor-Washington traverse is also a good one.

[admin]

i miss the olympics

have fun up there, and be safe in the valley behind constance.

[Fairweather]

quote:

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Originally posted by Norman Clyde:

Royal Basin ought to be a fine winter destination, with Deception and Fricaba being easily accessible ascents, though the valley has definite avalanche potential, especially into Surprise Basin just E. of Deception. The approach is 6 miles, as I recall, very steady slow incline the whole way, with a few old glacier steps at the top. I spoke to Olympic Mountaineering a few weeks back and they said the forest road is not always passable in winter, being unmaintained and sometimes snowy even at that low elevation (around 1000 feet I think). They suggested Deer Park as a good jumping off point. But I'd favor Constance myself.

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I climbed Fricaba a couple of years ago in early spring. On the decent we discovered the biggest slab-path I have ever seen. It started just below a sub-peak west of Fricaba and dumped toward Royal Basin. It was probably 10+ feet thick, 300 yards wide at the top, and slid well over a mile. It was only a day or 2 old. Snow blocks the size of small cars. It increased my respect for Olympic avalanche potential.

[Norman_Clyde]

I've only been in Royal Basin in summer, but it was pretty obvious even then that various slopes had slide potential. It looked like snow had discharged off E. Deception until almost none was left, and since then the slope had discharged rocks of various sizes, some the size of small cars. The shattered slate is very unstable. Olympic pillow basalt is better, but not by much.

[eternal]

What would you guys/girls recommend for a 4-5 day climb? Some friendsand I were thinking of doing Deception in Olympic, but we've gotconflicting reports on whether it's a good or bad idea, and on theroad closures. The goal is to spend as much time on snow and glacieras possible, but without doing anything too technical (We all haveextensive backpacking experience, but not alpine climbing. We plan totake one day of instruction before we start the trip in order to 'buy'some alpine experience).

It's really tough to gauge times on these mountains because most ofthe books are written for summer climbs where all the roads are open.

What do you think?

Thanks

--Tim

[Tom]

Another possibility, and good for the 4-5 day variety is Olympus. Although a trudge to get in to base at Glacier Meadows (2 days, normally), it provides the total Olympic experience - rain forest, big trees, glacier fed rivers, big glaciers, large snowfield in the snow dome, and several summit opportunities in the 3 peaks of Olympus, Tom, Panic (a scramble near the weather station)... I tried to do it the week prior to Thanksgiving - we wanted to watch the meteor shower from the top of Snow Dome or the false summit, but one of my feet blistered early in the hike. I've done it three times in the summer though.

The trail up to South Brothers between Lower Lena and the bivy is scenic also. And there should be enough snow to cover the scree on the ascent. Watch the hour-glass for avalanchge and rock though. As stated earlier, it's pretty much a 2 dayer.

Angeles via the east ridge is a fun day trip also, although not very challenging...

One climb we always do in winter is Cloudy Peak, near the ridge of the Gargoyles, north of Warrior. There's some potential avalanche there though, as experienced at Camp Boulder a couple years ago.

For those that were looking fo a picture of Constance, here is a pretty good one from the north, near Buckhorn. Constance from the north...

Tom

[Norman_Clyde]

If you approach Deception from the SW, via Dosewallips, there would be less avalanche concern. It's definitely class 2 from that side, with some slopes that would pose a risk, but also the ability to stay on ridges most of the way. You would need to hike in 8 miles from the Dosewallips trailhead, and the gate is closed about 2 miles short of this, so it's a long approach. I am unsure how much snow you would find in the first few miles since the elevation gain on the trail is very gradual. If you're going to take 4 or 5 days, you might want to look for a basin where you could approach more than one peak. Mystery and Little Mystery are close to this approach, and might be straightfoward in winter if conditions were good (but I wouldn't count on it).

If you're planning 4 or 5 days, you might want to take the Snow Lake trail into the Enchantments, where there are several nontechnical ascents in a spectacular setting.

[nolanr]

Just did Angeles again from Hurricane Ridge parking lot. Plenty of snow, but the ridge (Sunrise?) leading across to the base of the peak has been pretty wind scoured, mostly hard packed and in places there were patches of bare ground, grass, and shrubby stuff. Some deep, powdery drifts. The snow on the mountain was fairly stable. Used snow shoes and poles 'til I was within a hundred feet or so of the top, ended up taking off the 'shoes and grabbing the axe. Wind was blowing around 40 mph, from a short distance away you could see a nice plume of spindrift blowing off the top. Hooked up w/ 3 guys that are w/ Olympic Mountain SAR that were skiing the same route I was doing, pretty cool guys.

[ 02-10-2002: Message edited by: nolanr ]

[Chickenhead]

Just for clarification, is Olympus generally considered a 4-5 day trip in the winter?

[Norman_Clyde]

It's considered a 4 day trip in the summer. I think it's 14 miles up the Hoh river valley to the base. I can't really figure why that would take 4 days, since day 2 should be enough for the climb and day 3 to walk out. If there's any snow on the approach trail, which I figure there is, it would be a real slog in and out.

[Fairweather]

quote:

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Originally posted by Chickenhead:

Just for clarification, is Olympus generally considered a 4-5 day trip in the winter?

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Olympus has rarely been climbed in winter. The route above Elk Lake crosses several VERY steep avalanche chutes that would require belayed climbing. As of 1989 it was uncertain if Olympus had EVER been climbed in winter.(with the exception of the helicopter supported researchers at the IGY station) I'm sure it is possible, but the level of hardship required goes beyond what the "average" climber is interested in.

I'd love to hear if anyone here has done it or has any info about successful winter ascents. I have often wondered if a route up Tom Creek would be the way to do Olympus in winter.