mccleary cliffs

[erick]

Can someone tell me how to get to mccleary cliffs and where I can get information on the routes there?

[Drederek]

Don't know if there is anything in print but Mccleary cliffs are located on Lake Cushman. Turn left at the T past the state park towards staircase. After passing the Mt Rose trailhead look for a turnout on the lake side that is an abandoned loop of road with a boulder or pile of dirt blocking it. Directly below this is a 40' slab with three routes all 5.9ish (bolts). Cross the street and find a little trail. Go up 100' to "X" crag. You'll know it if you see it. A bunch of bolts on top. Long slings or rope helpful in setting up an anchor. Diagonally up and left the obvious ramp 5.3(gear). Diagonally up and right 5.10 (bolts). Up the right edge solid 5.10 (2 bolts runout but easy finish. From the top of the flake way left 5.8 slab (TR) and maybe some easy 5.11 moves right of that (TR). Wander right a bit theres a small open book with a little roof (gear?)5.9? Wander left from X crag and find the plaque wall (bronze plaque) 5.10 bolts and gear. Back down to road 200' towards staircase a large maple hides a couple more pitches. Up and left 5.7, straight up 5.10+ (one move) to a ledge. If those anchors are gone 3rd class or short 5.8 finger crack to a sturdy Madrona tree. The last time I climbed there the moss was really thick. Enjoy! D.

[Jamie]

In the new (4th edition) of Olympic Mountains a Climbing Guide Dale Boyle does a good job of describing the access and routes in the area. However due to a recent slide and road closure, I'm not sure you can get there or not. Dale says it is about 4 miles on Forest road 24 from the junction of State Route 119 and Forest road 24. Incidentally, this edition of the guide has many, many new rock climbing additions for several areas in the Olympics. JIM

Edited April 17, 2007 by Jamie

[jhamaker]

There is also some climbing NE of Quilcene and stuff at Chimucum. And don't forget the amazing disintigrating sandstone sea-stacks.

[Bergretter]

Rumor has it that access to McCleary Cliffs is shut down until early May by the Park. I second the above plug for the Olympic Mountains Climber Guide, has great new sport climbing/alpine rock sections. JH, I would be interested in where the climbing near Quilcene is located, I am familiar with Chimacum Rock, but nothing near Quilcene?

[neswstar]

heading up that wasy and was wondering is access truly "shut down" or is it just a longer walk? - any idea how long?

[miladugga]

I haven't been there for awhile but last year? or the year before there was a fire at Cushman that seemed to be right in that area and closed everything down. The Oly Mountaineers used to do their rock class there, maybe they would know current status? Some of the routes are descibed in rockclimbing.com under routes/washington. Last time I was there I climbed Slapshot and thought it was a pretty fun route, and the routes on the lake are easy (5.7) but in a nice area. Only do the rope swing if the lake is "up." And watch out for ticks.

[Mr._Natural]

Access update???????????????????????????????????

[Bergretter]

ACCESS OPEN, at least as far as the cliffs. Hit the lake wall last weekend (5/5-6)which was in good condition with plenty of sunshine working the remaining moss over. Didn't have time to check out the areas across the road, although other parties were climbing there. Some were complaining of areas of loose rock in normally stable areas.

[BigWave]

The Olympia Mounies have done a little cleaning of the area and are up there today with their basic climbing class.

[Jamie]

We sometimes climb Mt. Townsend from the Little Quil Trail and if you leave the trail up high (about 1500 meters and about 1 kilometer from Last Water)and go direct to the (sort of) Northeast ridge you can get into some interesting rock if you follow the ridge all the way to the closest summit. Also, Quilcene area, you can do Iron peak or the second Buckhorn and find some alpine rock.