[TR] Mt. Rainier- Kautz Glacier 7/28/2006

[scottk]

Climb: Mt. Rainier-Kautz Glacier

 

Date of Climb: 7/28/2006

 

Trip Report:

TomB, TonyM, and I headed up to try our hand on the Kautz this past weekend. Headed out Friday morning from Paradise to Glacier Vista and down to the Nisqually. Options to access the Wilson included the Fan, straight across the Nisqually towards the left side of the Wilson, and up the right side of the Nisqually towards the right side of the Wilson. We thought we could see a route towards the right side of the Wilson and headed out that way. Another team of two chose to head directly towards the left side of the Wilson. As we climbed higher it became apparent that our route was becoming increasingly more broken up and would ultimately put us directly beneath rock bands and seracs. It's always tough to give up hard fought altitude, but eventually we retreated and followed the other team of two up the left route to the Wilson (they won the route finding prize for the day). Here's a picture of the general route we both took:

 

 

This approach is generally pretty straight-forward, with the exception of a short section of moderately steep, dirty ice to access the Wilson. Much preferred to the nasty fan. The rest of the trip up to Turtle Rock was uneventful and straight-forward.

 

There was another 3-person team already at Turtle Rock and we were eventually joined by the previously mentioned 2-person team. Running water and good tent platforms made for good camping, although the wind was blowing hard. A ranger trotted by during the early evening, returning around 8:00. He indicated the rappel station was at 10,700 (not!).

 

Given our intention of climbing over to the DC, we packed up everything (not!) and headed out at 2:00. Next, we had to overcome a few challenges. First, after about an hour of climbing, we came to the realization that the rope was still in camp. After much cursing and self flagellation, Tony the ironman volunteered to go get it. Tom and I shivered in the wind for 45 minutes until he returned. Our next challenge occurred when we started looking for the rappel station at 10,700. Up to 10,800, down to 10,600 and way over to the west we went looking for something that looked like the pictures we had seen. No luck. Back up we went. Eventually, around 11,000, we could see the team of three hanging out above us at a spot that looked like the rappel spot. And so it was. They were turning around at that point due to the high winds. There was an old rope down the route but it was knotted to assist people that were climbing up. We used our own rope to rappel down and then quickly crossed the gully below the ice fall. Much preferred to climbing down the gully and a lot more fun.

 

The first ice ramp was about 35 degrees with lots of ice penitentes, cracks, and other features that provided good footholds. This was fun and relaxing. Then we crossed the lower-angle snow slope to the second ice ramp. This ramp was much more intimidating. We didn’t measure the slope, but I’m guessing it averaged about 45-50 degrees with short moves that were steeper. Everyone else gractiously allowed me to lead. Full disclosure here, given that I don’t have much experience ice climbing, the first pitch was slow and somewhat scary. We had a 60 meter rope and 5 screws. I put a screw in every 30 ft or so, but I knew that I didn’t want to fall 60 ft. Although I was using 2 ice tools, the ice was brittle and plates of ice would fly off with every swing. One of the plates (a big one) glanced off Tony’s pack and smacked Tom in the thigh. He thought it was broken at first, but fortunately it was only a bad bruise. I found that the crampons seemed to grip well even with about ½ inch of penetration. With encouragement from below I began to move more confidently and eventually reached a good belay spot. I belayed off two equalized screws. Tony and Tom, with one tool and one axe each, moved faster than I did. The second pitch was easier, with less angle and more features to work with. I led again while Tony belayed me up the pitch. I set screws every 50 feet or so on the second pitch. The sun was actually hitting the ice at this point and it became more plastic and reliable. This pitch was actually fun. We simul-climbed for a short bit. When I reached the top of the steep stuff I set up another belay station. Here’s a few photos from the second belay station:

 

 

 

 

From here we reached the upper section of the Kautz, leaving ice behind and starting the long slog to the top. We chose to head right, crossing over the rocky ridge to the Nisqually and finding a boot track that showed us the way through the crevasses. I’m not sure why but we were all whipped at this point. This was my 5th time up Rainier, I’m in better condition than ever, and I still was complete toast on this trip. I’m not sure if it was the heavier pack or the front pointing up the ice ramps, but it was the same for Tom and Tony.

 

Never-the-less, we made it to the top at 4:00 pm (embarrassing long summit day) and had the summit completely to ourselves. We had originally considered camping at the summit but the high winds, negative weather forecast, and developing cloud cover made that option un-attractive. So down the DC we headed, following the trough all the way to Camp Muir by 7:00. A very relaxing trip down that made us glad we had decided to carry over. Due to the weather forecast, Camp Muir was half deserted, a big surprise for the end of July. We had a very comfortable evening and a great sleep. The next morning we awoke, refreshed and in good spirits. The wind was blowing hard, there were clouds above us on the summit, and clouds below us, with a dusting of snow to freshen up the dirty snow surface created by 3-4 weeks of hot sunny weather. The walk down was quick (2 hours) and there was ice on the rocks at Pebble Creek.

 

The Kautz may not be the toughest route on the mountain, but it was the perfect challenge for the three of us. The route is still in great shape for anyone that likes moderate ice climbing

 

 

Gear Notes:

5 ice screws (6 would have been better for me), 2 ice tools for the lead, tool and axe for others, 60 meter rope, rappel/belay device

 

Approach Notes:

head straight up the left side of the Nisqually to the bottom of the Wilson

[mountainguy01]

Glad you guys had fun. I briefly spoke with you at Ingraham Flats (party of two along cow path). Looked like you had a long day. We did the D.C. on Sunday morning. Woke to clear and windless skies followed by high winds, sleet and snow. We summited in a whiteout from 13,000'+. Pretty miserable but always great to get out. It was amazing how few people were at Muir.

[RocNoggin]

good job on the Mountain! nice TR and pics too! :-)

[valleydude]

Sweet route dude! That stuff looks crazy. Might wanna check that rope for crampon gashes.

[catbirdseat]

Nah, it only LOOKS like he's standing on it- an illusion.

 

I'll bet they were glad about not having to descend the Kautz when it was 4 pm on the summit.

[scottk]

The picture is a bit misleading, my foot is actually on a hummock of ice in front of the rope.

 

It was actually cold enough that day that descending the Kautz in the evening would have probably been ok, assuming a rappel down the ice chutes. We had no issues with falling rock or ice on the way up (other than chunks knocked off by ice tools) and everything was frozen coming down the DC. Never-the-less, we were very glad to zip down the DC to Muir.

[goatboy]

Would you say that most of your time was spent on the technical sections, or the upper mountain, or a bit of both? Just curious about the approximate times en route, in order to plan accordingly.

 

Thanks for any details, great pictures, and nice work on the carry-over!

 

- Goat

[RogerJ]

We're also planning a carryover for the 11-12(-13). Planning time!

 

-r

[TonyM]

GB- Was on the team ... The approach to the 9400 foot level camps took a half day. Have a look at the first photo and climb the right side, near the dark streaks, of the lower Wilson to gain the correct route. Then angle right and up.

 

Had we known this (and there was no way of knowing as conditions change daily) , it would have saved us a couple hours on the first day. We started late and arrived at the bottom of the Turtle snowfield around 7PM. Up at 1AM, out the door by 2AM. We had 2 detours that cost us about 2 hours. So in general, if you start at 2AM, you'll be up and over the rappel by maybe 4AM'ish, but even that could be done faster.

 

The ice fall was slow but only due to the fact ice conditions were not good that day (very brittle ice). So it probably took 2-3 hours to get all three of us up and over the 2 ice falls/ramps. We did not place pro on the first one. The second one was a real challenge that day- the first pitch took a long time (2-4 whacks with the pick to get a good stick). The second pitch was cool- a little more exposure but solid sticks.

 

So if we had not had some early difficulties, and if ice conditions were better, we would have been on top by maybe 1 PM or so vs 4 PM. Carrying all your stuff up and over can not be underestimated. I'd like to think the 3 of us are in good shape, but the extra weight kicked our collective ass at 13K and we slowed down when compared to a normal day (OK, yes I climbed an extra 1K feet, but I'm not complaining!).

 

That said, since the days are still long, and if you hit it on a cool but sunny day, none of that will matter. We did not encounter any soft snow on the way down. Granted, it was cooler and the wind was a real factor during the entire time (kept the snow firm). This is a challenging and rewarding climb and the walk from the top of the Kautz to the crater rim is very, very cool. You get cool views of the Muir SF, and all the climbers/hikers, and the top of the Nisqually from above- good stuff!

[RogerJ]

Tony,

 

Thanks for the insights. I appreciate the beta.

 

-r