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North Ridge of Stu


WhiteLightning

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Its easy walking down the NW Buttress.Once on the north

side of Long John Tower,find slings for a short rap.Then

walk down easy slopes.Eventually ends at cliffs,go right

towards north ridge.Then a two raps off fixed slings will lead to spur that separates Stuart Glacier from snow fields

connecting goat pass.Walk down short,easy glacier section

to packs at a camp spot below glacier.Ice axes are not

required.Although the NW Buttress does not look like an

appealing down climb,it really works out well.Recommended.

 

http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/threadz/s...true#Post470758

 

So in the following picture, which rock is Long John Tower, and what do you aim for in order to get onto the NW Buttress descent?

 

mtstuartwr1.jpg

 

(Photo source/credit: http://www.climbingwashington.com/classics/mtstuartwestridge.htm )

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LJT is the one on the left. West Horn is the one on the right. I think the NW Buttress can be reached by going around West Horn on the large set of ledges you can see about 1/3 of the way down the ridge toward LJT. You reach it by going up that gully you can see above the righthand snow patch.

 

We descended to LJT via a rap from the rib just beyond the middle of the lefthand snow patch.

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