Gunks guide book- Loan it to me..?

[NYC007]

anyone have a gunks guide the wouldnt mind loaning me? I will be gone 9-16 of Aug. Not looking to buy unless very cheap.

 

Matt

[pzack]

Hey Matt,

 

I have one. I work in Bellevue & live in Snoqualmie. You can drop by and pick it up if you want... but I need it back for a trip in September/October.

 

-Zack

[powderhound]

Just got back from there.

 

You really should do these climbs..

 

Son of Easy O ; the coolest 5.8 I have ever done now one of my all time favs

 

Yellow ridge : sweet 5.7

 

Bonnies roof : 10a direct variation

[bwrts]

matt-

ever try the library?

[NYC007]

I couldnt find it at the Libary. Pzack I am on the East side.

[crackers]

how hard you gonna climb? need any route recommendations? I'd offer to show you around and about, but I'll be in utah...

 

but a warning: if this heat continues, you'll only be climbing very early or very late in the day.

[pzack]

I'll put the book in my car tonight. Let me know if you want to come by and get it while I'm at work (Bellevue-Eastgate area)

[NYC007]

I wont be on the west side anytime soon, thanks though. I hope the heat in NY stops soon. I will be with the GF so between 5.6-10a

[crackers]

I will be with the GF so between 5.6-10a

 

I'm assuming it's your first time. Take small gear for the 8 and up routes.

 

directissima variation of High Exposure. first two pitches of High E blow, so do the 9 variant up to the money pitch of high E.

 

modern times is what gunks climbing is all about. 5.8

hawk is a 5.4 that will have you wondering how 5.4 can be so hard. So is Sixish.

Arch/Wrist is a linkup of the best parts of the two climbs. Neat climbing.

First pitch of erect direction is 5.8 and then do the last pitch in one of CCK. Take the direct for some spice.

madame g's wulst in one pitch is awesome. lots of long runners since the route goes in an S kinda shape. 5.6

try again is a good first 10 in the gunks. lots of gear and pretty easy. the section of the cliff it's on is great.

Bonnie's roof and Ant's Line shouldn't be missed when you're down at the HighE end of the cliff.

 

i really like grand central 5.9 and disney point. P-38 is another good starter 5.10.

 

Traverse of the Clods is one interesting 5.9. Easy moves, but what a whimper...

 

Do the first pitch of Bird Land.

Gelsa.

Yellow Ridge is another neat climb. Do it in two pitches, combining p1 and p2.

 

that should get you started...

[crackers]

Do you want Uber Climb?

 

do P1 of MF to P2 of Birdie Party to the Dangler (highE variant). 5.9 all the way, and what a combo route...Each pitch is a three star route by itself.

 

Or do something interesting in one pitch to the GT ledge and then do the dangler...

[powderhound]

WHEN YOU DO MF GO RIGHT AFTER ROOF,I MADE MISTAKE OF GOING LEFT, 10 R AND SCARED ME.

[crackers]

that should be right around the roof and bear right...straight up is 10 and it's run out twenty feet. It's a clean fall though...

[powderhound]

Clean fall onto rusty piton palced god knows when, all I know is that I found a placement for my WC zero bout 15 feet above that rusty piton, and my belayer could almost see the shit running down my leg.

[crackers]

Clean fall onto rusty piton palced god knows when, all I know is that I found a placement for my WC zero bout 15 feet above that rusty piton, and my belayer could almost see the shit running down my leg.

 

No offense powderhound, but why in hell did you clip that piton? It's historical color, not protection! It wiggles! Never EVER trust a pin in the gunks...

 

Next to the pin, you can put a red or orange metolius. In the roof you can put yellow metolius or red alien. You could put nuts in the dihedral.

 

You can slot a HB green brassie as you exit the roof. You can rig a pair of #2 WC nuts in a seam under opposing tension about four feet past that. You can throw in a 00 or a black alien about a body length after that, probably where you threw in your WC Zero.

 

Gear in the gunks tends to be much smaller than what I've seen out west. The rock is so hard that you don't have to worry about the gear pulling -- broken gear is far more common than gear pulling out in the gunks. At 185 pounds, I've taken numerous 20 to 30 foot above my gear falls on 00 metolius and black aliens. I wouldn't do it elsewhere.