CaleHoopes Posted July 19, 2006 Posted July 19, 2006 Ok, about to buy my first rope. I plan on doing mostly glacier travel with someday doing some sort of simple single-pitch outdoor rock. I'm thinking of TWO ropes... 8.5mm for glacier and 10-11mm for rock. Or should I just get one 10-11mm and use for both? Thoughts? Please no flame... I'm just getting started after all. Thanks! Quote
catbirdseat Posted July 19, 2006 Posted July 19, 2006 Ok, about to buy my first rope. I plan on doing mostly glacier travel with someday doing some sort of simple single-pitch outdoor rock. I'm thinking of TWO ropes... 8.5mm for glacier and 10-11mm for rock. Or should I just get one 10-11mm and use for both? Thoughts? Please no flame... I'm just getting started after all. Thanks! Your two rope idea is best if you can afford it. Quote
TrogdortheBurninator Posted July 19, 2006 Posted July 19, 2006 If you get just one, I'd get something in the 9.x mm range (bigger 9.8ish=more durable, smaller 9.2ish=lighter). You will appreciate the weight savings on glacier routes, and it should hold up well to occasional cragging. The two rope idea is a better way to go. You could also consider two 8.5mm ropes and use half rope technique on rock. Quote
Alpinfox Posted July 19, 2006 Posted July 19, 2006 A 50m X 8.5mm "dry" treated rope is ideal for glacier travel. A 60m X 10.5mm bipattern or middle-marked rope is ideal for rock cragging. A 60m X 9.5mm rope will work for both (though not as well as the ideal rope) and will be a good choice for alpine rock climbing. The half-rope idea is a good one and is the popular choice of many climbers in Europe, but not very many people in the US (except some ice climbers) use this system. You might have to train your belayers in half-rope technique if you go this route. Quote
CaleHoopes Posted July 19, 2006 Author Posted July 19, 2006 STELLAR ADVICE folks. I think over time I should be able to afford two ropes so I'll probably start with an 8.5mm. I was looking at http://www.rei.com/online/store/ProductD...HP_CLIMBING_TOC Which is 60m x 8.5mm. How are Mammut ropes? Good stuff? Anyway, it will be a long while before I was leading on a rock pitch anyway. I'm still a gym jockey... Thanks guys! You ROCK! Quote
Alpinfox Posted July 19, 2006 Posted July 19, 2006 Mammut makes the best ropes in the biz in my opinion. Quote
mattp Posted July 20, 2006 Posted July 20, 2006 Robert - How much have you torture tested it? Does anyone have any idea how a pair of them might perform on steep rock climbs? Sheath slippage? Quote
Alpinfox Posted July 20, 2006 Posted July 20, 2006 I've got a 50m 8.5mm Genesis that I use as a scramble rope, short rap rope, glacier rope, tag line, and rappelling pair rope. It's perfromed perfectly with no sheath slippage over the 5 years (maybe 25 uses) that I've had it. Quote
fern Posted July 20, 2006 Posted July 20, 2006 I've used my 8.5mm Genesis for 7 or 8 yrs for alpine, ice, glacier, raps, tag line etc. like A-Fox. Don't think I have ever whipped on it, but it's been weighted and dragged around a lot. Still in great shape, dry treatment works OK, no sheath slippage, barely fuzzy - WAY better than Edelrids. I have had so-so performance from mid-thick Mammuts (9.2mm and 10mm) but the 8.5mm and 10.5mm have been solid, long lasting and good value. Quote
RuMR Posted July 20, 2006 Posted July 20, 2006 ahhh hell, brands schmands... just buy the cheapest rope in the weight/dia/length you are looking for...they are all pretty much the same.. Quote
mattp Posted July 20, 2006 Posted July 20, 2006 they are all pretty much the same.. Not true. Not even close. There can be significant differences in durability, handling characteristics, etc. not to mention colors. But the advice to buy cheap ropes and therefore perhaps feel inclinded to buy new ropes more often is not necessarily bad advice. Quote
RuMR Posted July 20, 2006 Posted July 20, 2006 gotta disagree...there is not enough difference to warrant another $75 in price difference... I have several different colors of thongs to match with, so color is never an issue.. Quote
robert Posted August 1, 2006 Posted August 1, 2006 Robert - How much have you torture tested it? Does anyone have any idea how a pair of them might perform on steep rock climbs? Sheath slippage? Fox and Fern have used theirs much more than I have. I have only had it for a year and I think it has only seen snow and ice. No big falls, but a couple of small ones. Seems to be in new condition. I think that I am going to be trying it doubled for a bit of rock this weekend, but that will be the first time it has seen any summer use. Quote
Farrgo Posted August 1, 2006 Posted August 1, 2006 I've had the mammut 8.5s for a couple years and have used them for alpine, rock in the bugs, and mixed and they still look brand new. I'd say they're very durable, and they hold their dry treatment longer than other ropes I've tried. Quote
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