? for the Beacon folk

[northwest_dad]

Hey, does anyone have sone good info for 'Young Warrior'? Like detailed description of the start, anchors (build your own or built), top out? I heard about it and tried to do a search on it but there are way to mant results to weed through. Thanks.

[Blake]

Here's the route description.

 

P.S. It used to be 5.10... but Joseph's rating reflects the fact that he's climbed it about 800 times.

 

Anchors are a mix of chains, pins, and build-your own. Really good route!

[ivan]

+++deleted for reasons of national security+++

Edited June 29, 2006 by ivan

[billcoe]

Ivan said:

spew way too many words more spew then move your left hand up and grab a flake then your right foot hits this nubbin 2.23 feet up and right then there is a crack which eases to the right which has a 3 foot high 1:" diameter slide alder stalk 2 of which are dead and you do that crack which is approx 1/2" or so in diameter while using the face holds on the right and your left foot is on a hunk of basalt and has a #3 lost arrow placed 3/4 of the way to the eye and more spew spew spew

 

JimmyO really, really wanted that off the net and untopoed which explains why it is not in the guidebook.Despite not being in the guidebook it may be the 2nd most popular route out there.

 

Dad: don't know if I'm Beacon folks, I don't think so, some of these guys are almost living out there, recommend hooking up with someone who knows the thing and doing the route.

[ivan]

not nearly enough profanity for what would ostensibly be me grande bill!

 

bottom line dad is the patriarch's of the big stone want to mantain the mystery of ths route - bring nuts and lotza draws - expect 4 pitches plus a long simul climb off - half the pitches are gear and the other half old-school sport - the last 2 pitches are full rope lengths

[billcoe]

not nearly enough profanity for what would ostensibly be me grande bill!

 

bottom line dad is the patriarch's of the big stone want to mantain the mystery of ths route - bring nuts and lotza draws - expect 4 pitches plus a long simul climb off - half the pitches are gear and the other half old-school sport - the last 2 pitches are full rope lengths

 

Nice call Ivan, but gather round little childrens and listen carefully as this is the most important part of that climb. The top of P1 is not the dual bolts. Those are for the rappel ONLY. They are not the anchor . OK, sure I've used them as the anchor and I've led that next pitch as well while being belayed from them.

 

Short and interesting story.

 

Opy and I went up there origonally and I ran out to directly under the butthole crack, and I backed off. Yes, my pussy ass became weak kneed. Had I (or Jim) owned TCUs or Aliens, could have been a different story, but with nuts only, no previewing, looking up at the runout and what appears to be loose stuff up there - I couldn't do the FFA of the pitch. Almost peed myself I felt so uncomfortable. Plus I have kids I needed to return home to and put through college.

 

Anywho, Jim goes back with Kenny. Belaying from the rap anchors, Kenny runs out there, Jim had put a bolt in where the route turns, Kenny clips and goes. Kenny was a lot stronger than me, duh. Braver as well. So Kenny goes up and somewhere up there he falls.

 

Shhhh, settle down now and be quiet: that rope, running over that little ridge 8 feet to the left of the P1 rap anchors, cores out about 8-10 feet. Totally strips the kern off the mantel.

 

Then Kenny goes for it again and makes it up. OMG. With the rope cored.

 

So my point is, climb up to the 2 bolt anchor, clip them for the follower, then step left 8 feet to the single bolt/Pin anchor. You can back it up.

 

Unless you know your buddie won't fall or it's his rope and you just don't care.

[Ffej]

Hey check out the Trip report index. JosephH has a pitch by pitch report that was helpful when I went to do it. Just use Beacon as your location. I've only been in Portland for 2 Years and have really found both sides of the coin when it comes to people sharing info. Enjoy the climb.

[kevbone]

I have the second accent (from ground to summit) and i would have to say, its not easy to find the anchors and belay ledges, so you might want to go out climb it and learn from doing it. Ask around out there, someone will climb it with you. Good luck!

[northwest_dad]

Thanks all, I hadn't really heard about it not being in the guidebook. What guidebook? The new Portland one? I haven't even seen it. But again, thanks for the info, it sound like a fun route that I'll have to find and do soon.