Toast Posted June 18, 2006 Share Posted June 18, 2006 Who's got recommendations on something moderate, alpine rock oriented, and can be done in 3 - 4 days including the drive from and back to Seattle I was thinking of the Tantalus Traverse, but the approach and climb don't sound like it'll work given time constraints. Ideas? P/S looking for something fun but reasonable for us mere mortals. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ckiely Posted June 19, 2006 Share Posted June 19, 2006 What about a traverse of the east ridges of Alpha and Serratus? I haven't done it but I was just coincidentally reading a report on it on Bivouac - apparently one or two pitches of 5.7/8, and probably some 4th class. http://bivouac.com/TripPg.asp?TripId=5052 There will certainly be enough snow left up there to make it fun! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
northvanclimber Posted June 19, 2006 Share Posted June 19, 2006 east ridge of alpha is nice. if pressed for time you can speed up the ascent by bypassing the technical rock on the left with some fourth class scrambling. also, finding the actual trail that heads up to the ridge (instead of just bushwhacking your way up) also speeds things up nicely. i've got some photos and a rough outline of the route online here: http://gallery.antiflux.org/v/lavina/album858/mountain123/album974/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmace Posted June 19, 2006 Share Posted June 19, 2006 Why not the Tantalus traverse..drive from C town after work arrive in squish at the airport wake up fly in and climb Tantalus to dionne and sleep one day, second day climb dionne takes about an hour or less..make your way to red tit hut..sleep. day three climb serratus and back to the tit..day four hike back to the river to water taxi and maybe some stashed bikes or a pick up to airport and go home..totally reasonable I think I paid 300 for one way trip for two dudes to base of tantalus ridge..a spectacualar trip with no one around.. plus every time you drive the sea to sky you look at that ridge and go mmmmmm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jordop Posted June 19, 2006 Share Posted June 19, 2006 If you want something a bit more logistically friendly, 3 days at the Wedge hut can't be beat. Scramble route on Weart is pretty cool, N arete in Wedge likewise. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dberdinka Posted June 20, 2006 Share Posted June 20, 2006 The SW Buttress of Dione is an excellent low-5th class rock climb. Combine it with the standard route on Tantalus for a good day from the Red Tit Hut. The DonSerl-north face route on Alpha was OK. Another good day trip from the hut. If you can figure out the river exit the price of a one-way flight in is worth it. Fly in Day 1, Climb Dione-Tantalus Day 2, Climb Alpha Day 3, Long Hike out Day 4. Beautiful place! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted June 20, 2006 Share Posted June 20, 2006 The new Jim Haberl Hut opens for bidness July 1! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toast Posted June 20, 2006 Author Share Posted June 20, 2006 Good stuff, thanks guys : ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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