Nisqually-Gibraltar Chute

[Stephen_Ramsey]

Is there anyone out there who has any information about the "Nisqually-Gibraltar Chute" route on Mount Rainier? Note that this is not the same as the Gibraltar Ledges route; it is a variation that meets up with the Ledges route, bypassing most of the ledge (at least I think). I'm wondering if this route might be climbable this time of year, and if so, how serious the rockfall/icefall hazards might be. I'd especially appreciate hearing from anyone who has climbed this route, as to its difficulty level and the ease/difficulty of routefinding. I tried to observe the route from the Muir Snowfield over the weekend, but without binoculars it was hard to really see much of anything.

 

Since I almost never hear of anyone climbing this route, I'm wondering if that should tell me something...

 

Thanks in advance,

Steve

[oldclimber]

Climbed it a few years ago. 40 degree cramponing up to two icy pitches just below where the chute meets the ledges and you move left to camp comfort. Belayed off pickets. Not hard, but you wouldn't want to fall. The biggest issue was rock fall. We dodged numerous football sized screamers while in the chute. Wear helmets, start early and maintain a brisk pace up the chute to minimize your exposure. All in all, it's a stout, satisfying climb that I think is worth doing. Enjoy.

[Terry_McClain]

My buddy Gary Hoff and I climbed it car to car this last weekend. The chute was in excellent condition with lots of firm neve=easy crampon. I would recommend going high on Nisqually and then cutting right to get into chute. There are some crevasse issues getting into chute and this worked well for us. Then traverse to right and stay on right side of chute going up. We missed getting hit by a big release of ice off Nisqually ice cliff by about 30 minutes so move fast just before getting into the chute. We placed 2 pickets in running belay right where it necked down just before merging with Gib ledge route. It was not particulary steep there but we had a little ice coming down at the time. There is some definite exposure to ice and rock fall so watch the freeze level as well. A most enjoyable climb. A special thanks to Fairweather for carrying 4 liters of water to Muir earlier in the day. It saved us a lot of time not melting water at Muir. Good luck!

[Dan_Larson]

Haven't climbed it yet but The route description says early summer O.K. but turns bad after that Icefall from Nisqually icecliffs and rockfall from Gib rock. Climb fast, start early and stay climbers right . I want to do this route soon let me know if you need another person. What say Alpine Tom if the ledges are too melted out using this as an alternative

[Dan_Larson]

Haven't climbed it yet but The route description says early summer O.K. but turns bad after that Icefall from Nisqually icecliffs and rockfall from Gib rock. Climb fast, start early and stay climbers right . I want to do this route soon let me know if you need another person. What say Alpine Tom if the ledges are too melted out using this as an alternative

[Rsctt83]

I was going to attempt the Chute two weekends ago but the weather was horrible. I had contacted Mike Gauthier via e-mail and he said "scott

i took a look at the route yesterday and it appeared perfect. i'm not sure what the snow conditions were like, but the chute itself was filled in with snow/ice and the route looked quite climbable. there wasn't any exposed rock...

should be good, but climb fast, and keep climbers right as you ascend the chute...

mike"

 

hope this helps.

[Jens]

I was just up there last weekend. The route looked in pretty good shape, (although I didn't climb it.)

 

My plan was to climb it and then ski it. My thought was to leave Paradise late enough in the morning so that the thing had softened up a little. I skinned to just below the bergschrund near the base of the couloir. As all the serracs above my head were getin' full on sun, I heard a huge groan. I decided that it was a little late in the day to be under all that ice and cramponing solo up the couloir, So I had to settle for a ski down from the base of the couloir rather than higher. I guess a better strategy would have been to climb the route, summit, and then wait at the top of the coulor for the thing to soften up.