Rappel Etiquette

[Evank]

I've been sport climbing for a couple of years and am just now getting into trad/multipitch.

 

A couple of friends of mine are thinking about doing Condorphamine Addiction at Leavenworth sometime next month. The info I've seen online suggests a double-rope rappel back down the route from the top. Since they will probably be doing it on a weekend, I would imagine that there might be some folks climbing it below them. It got me wondering: if you have to rap off a route and there are folks below you, what is the proper "etiquette"? Do you wait for the climbers to get to a belay ledge before tossing the rope down, or do you just yell down that it's coming and let them fend for themselves?

 

Also, I was recently out to We Did Rock at Exit 38 for the first time. From the condition of the chains, it looks like a lot of folks are toproping from them. I ran my rope through a different link to rappel once or twice because the bottom link looked so worn. If I see someone doing this, is it acceptable for me to politely point out that it isn't good for the chains, or do I just suck it up and continue to rap off a different link?

[gavastik]

I'm not from around here so don't know about any specific local etiquette. With that in mind: waiting until the leader below you is either at a belay or at a spot where they can tell you they're safe is common courtesy, IMO. Beware of just yelling 'rope!' without looking for feedback. I was once leading a traversing route, when a rope fell from above and whacked my ropes behind me, pulling down on me. Thankfully I was at a pretty good stance, so no biggie, but kind of scary. When the guys rapped down they swore they yelled 'rope!' but I sure didn't hear them.

Anyway, just to say: play nice, kids!

[catbirdseat]

Also, I was recently out to We Did Rock at Exit 38 for the first time. From the condition of the chains, it looks like a lot of folks are toproping from them. I ran my rope through a different link to rappel once or twice because the bottom link looked so worn. If I see someone doing this, is it acceptable for me to politely point out that it isn't good for the chains, or do I just suck it up and continue to rap off a different link?

Well, since We Did sees so many beginners, you'd be swimming upstream if you try to get people not to lower off the chains. Best thing to do is carry some quick links to throw on there. If you see some chains that need replacing you can fire off an e-mail to Garth Bruce to let him know about it. He'll replace it or see to it that it gets done (see www.northbendrock.com for address).

[chucK]

If rapping down possibly on top of people, then yes, you should yell "rope" once or twice, AND wait for replies. If you hear anybody yelling at you to wait, then you probably should. Wouldn't want to knock a leader off.

 

With respect to Condomorphine Addiction, it is quite easy to make one single-rope rap (or just downclimb) off the back into the gulley, then walk down climber's right. If you choose this method, you might consider bringing your shoes to the top (clip them to your harness with a locker).

[dbconlin]

you might consider bringing your shoes to the top (clip them to your harness with a locker).

 

I dropped one of my approach/descent shoes from over 500' up in RMNP once due to it backclipping itself when I sat on a ledge. Watched it sail down, yelled "rock" for lack of anything better (I knew there was a party below), and marked the spot it landed. Had to descend steep scree/talus and some snow with one climbing shoe on, but I hiked back (uphill) to the base of the climb and found my shoe, luckily, because there was a 3-4 mi hike out after that.

 

Never did get my sock, though!

[Jason_Martin]

There is a trick that may be useful when rappelling a popular route. Recently a tech tip in Climbing magazine dubbed this technique "saddlebags" for lack of a better term.

 

The idea is to thread the rope (or ropes) and then to butterfly coil the remainder of the rope. After you are finished coiling, clip it through a sling to your harness. I often lay the rope in the center of the sling and then clip one biner to my harness and then clip the other biner to the biner that is already clipped.

 

If you do this correctly, the rope will feed out of the sling through your rappel device. You will not have to throw the rope down the cliff at all.

 

This is an especially good technique when it is difficult to hear or see parties below you.

 

Jason

[sweatinoutliquor]

Nice tip Jason. Also useful for the really windy days when tossing a rope means it drifts 40 feet to the left and gets stuck on something.

[miller]

Don't throw your ropes at all when others are below. Just lower the ends down hand over hand. Nobody gets bombed, and your ropes won't end up in a granny knot.

 

Also be aware of when you pull your ropes - them suckers can hurt! But a little communication with the other party usually solves that one. You may have to wait a little, they may have to wait a little - but the sooner you're out of each others way, the better for everyone, so base your decisions as to who is going to wait accordingly.

 

Clustered belays/rappels happen on routes like that - just try to be accomodating whether you're the descending party or the ascending party, and pay extra attention when unclipping from the anchors and when others unclip from the anchor - don't unclip them and don't let them unclip you. It can happen when people are tired and uncomfortable and every single locker at the station happens to be a shiny gold Petzl Attache, for example. Also, if you're the ascending party and can see that others ahead will be rapping down before you top out, be considerate (among other things) and dont set your anchor off of the bottom chain links. This will just further the cluster.

 

Word. Happy climbing!

[miller]

...hey Evan, I forgot to mention that you can rap that route with one 60m rope (you mentioned double rope raps in your original post).