boots and crampons

[plark42]

Hey out there. I was thinking of either getting the la sportiva trango S evo GTX or going for a plastic boot (like koflach degre). Any suggestions? Do the trangos hold up (keep feet warm and dry) on log snow slogs? (mt. baker or rainier..)

 

What are some good newmatic crampons out there?

[genepires]

Your feet will get wet in long snow slogs in trango's, unless your climb involves mostly dirt and a little snow. (at the very least, sweat will build up) Plastic boots are superior bet if your are concerned about wet feet on snow climbs. Even sweat is less of an issue since the water has greater places to be rather than next to your foot and the ease of drying the boot liner out.

I tend to use plastics early in the summer season (may to early july) and then go to leathers when the time spent on snow is around 25% of time vs dirt.

 

good crampons? yes, tons really. Petzl/CM, grivel and BD all make good poons but what kind of climbing do you dream of? For the peaks mentioned, you could use a light crampon like the grivel air tech lite. If you have a little more demanding route in mind then the vasak, sabretooth or g12 are good choices. Really hard to get a bad crampon from any of those companies. You just got to pick a crampon that is appropriate for your climbs.

[underworld]

the trango s boots are not sloggers - they are summer alpine boots IMO. plenty of people get away with them on the big mountains but i think that it's just that...getting away with it. trango's and plastics are kind of opposite ends of the spectrum. maybe you should get something more do-it-all then go with some more specialized stuff later on. some heavier-duty leathers are more versatile.

 

as for crampons, same goes. if you are going to own one pair, get some steel 12 pointer glacier crampons. they will be the jack-of-all trades crampons. then if you decide to be a full-time slogger pick up some lightweight al's or if you get more technical get some super-heal-spur-mono-omaticas...

[cj001f]

Your feet will get wet in long snow slogs in trango's, unless your climb involves mostly dirt and a little snow. (at the very least, sweat will build up) Plastic boots are superior bet if your are concerned about wet feet on snow climbs.

GTX liner = dry feet save sweat. At least for me. Dry feet even when standing in water. I way over heat in plastics and they are miserable. Check out something like the Scarpa Charmoz - more ankle support/better slogging boot than the Trango.

[thatcher]

Hey out there. I was thinking of either getting the la sportiva trango S evo GTX or going for a plastic boot (like koflach degre). Any suggestions?

 

what happened to your glaciers?

i finally got a pair. they sure do beat my old degrees

[plark42]

Hey Thatcher!! Long time!!... Ashley and I are planning to do Lassen peak (hopefully) over memorial day weekend.. you up for it?? Maybe Shasta is on the horizon too... (btw Ashley got into veterinary school in Tennessee!!..) so we'll be moving out there come August.. I'll have to hang up the ice axe and crampons for a few years and replace them with rock climbing gear and my mtn bike..

 

My glaciers are fine.. although they feel a bit clunky to me.. It would be nice to have some boots that are super light.. (but I think I would be sacrificing performance).. I also like the idea of step in crampons.. maybe I'll just look for some newmatics or semi-autos.. and perhaps try on a smaller pair of the glaciers.. (which are great btw)

 

Keep in touch.. let me know if you are down for Lassen..