Gunsight Peak info?

[EC_O]

Anybody been back there (and actually climbed the damn thing) in the last few seasons? Wondering if the (recently) changed East Face has a new grade/description? How about the West Face? Looking for some hard(er) climbing that could be done as part of the Ptarmigan Traverse this summer.

[layton]

west face (i think) still hasn't had a 2nd ascent!

[John Frieh]

West Face is missing bolts.

 

East Face is gone/significantly altered.

[dalius]

Who did what to the E Face? Rockslide?

[Blake]

noted in '01 by RobertM

The East Face route has been changed by a major rockfall. The ledges were full of dangerous loose blocks which are razor sharp. It looks like a huge overhang fell from high up on the route and scoured the face. From the last ledge there is a 20 ft. high pillar to your right which is just waiting to go. We experienced large amounts of rockfall on the route and rappeled into the the cleft between the South and Main peaks.

.... sounds like a fun spot

 

Here's a Ptarmigan challenge, top out on all the summits that the original party did along the way. This has NEVER been repeated in almost 70 years! Is the Ptarmigan Traverse still waiting a true second ascent? nm... new thread.

[EC_O]

Do you mean around the second pitch (or 2nd belay) where Jim says '...a bolt or two needed at the belay?' Or are you aware of someone having chopped some additional bolts? Sounds like a bolt kit is a worthy idea....

[EC_O]

Or some mighty fine hookin' in old bolt holes!!!!?

[dberdinka]

I've never been anywhere near there (but I always ment to go!). Regardless here is an interesting tidbit of information I picked up from a crusty old salt.

 

Both the west faces of the northwest peak and the south peak have been climbed. These faces are very visible in the Beckey Guide photo.

 

The NW Pk-W Face was a four pitch 5.10- supposedly good. The S Pk-W Face was also 5.10. Both done in the early 90's.

 

A friend (actually an alcoholic-vegan-cheese thief) did do the 5.6 buttress route to viewers right of the west face and said it was phenomenal.

[John Frieh]

Do you mean around the second pitch (or 2nd belay) where Jim says '...a bolt or two needed at the belay?' Or are you aware of someone having chopped some additional bolts? Sounds like a bolt kit is a worthy idea....

 

Bolts are there. Jim took the wrong size bolt/drill on the first ascent so the bolts are undersized to the holes they are in.

 

Or some mighty fine hookin' in old bolt holes!!!!?

 

There isn't a bolt ladder... just a lone bolt protecting a lot of hard face climbing.

[Blake]

 

Both the west faces of the northwest peak and the south peak have been climbed. These faces are very visible in the Beckey Guide photo.

 

The NW Pk-W Face was a four pitch 5.10- supposedly good. The S Pk-W Face was also 5.10. Both done in the early 90's.

 

A friend (actually an alcoholic-vegan-cheese thief) did do the 5.6 buttress route to viewers right of the west face and said it was phenomenal.

 

 

So was this Kearney? Anyone more info you want to spill on these unrecorded routes?

 

P.S. it's the NE not NW peak.

[Blake]

west face (i think) still hasn't had a 2nd ascent!

no longer...

update on the climb and bolts in case any stumbles across this thread.

 

http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=563718&an=&page=