[TR] Switzerland of Rwanda- Several Routes 4/8/2006

[ken4ord]

Climb: Switzerland of Rwanda-Several Routes

 

Date of Climb: 4/8/2006

 

Trip Report: Switzerland

The view from Switzerland of Rwanda.

 

Another good day out in Rwanda. Needing a break from the scary rock throwing baboons and change of scenery, I decided to check out a new area that I would pass on my way to Panga. I managed to rope Joeri into making the drive out there and see if we could find some new climbing. After a little 4 wheeling through the villages and getting 'What the hell are you muzungus doing here?' looks from the local we found some cliffs. We parked the car and made our way acoss the open grassy hilltop to the crags.

 

The first crag we got to was awesome looking cave with an overhanging wall above, but because the rock was so compact cave it was completely featureless. So we continued looking. Below us we found a couple of small cliffs and went to work immediately. Again these cliffs were quite featureless, but they were low angle. We managed to squeeze out 4 routes from here in the 5.7 to 5.9+ range.

 

We started with Easy Street 5.7 and Slippery Slab 5.9

 

Joeri topping out on Easy Street.

 

Then we did Side Way 5.9+, we did all these on TR, but I want to go back a lead them. Joeri ended up doing another easy climb on the other side of this block.

 

After doing these routes and putting on a show for the locals, we went to check out the rest of the hillside. At this point the locals had figured out what we were looking for and were able to lead us directly to some more small cliffs. Again came across a nice rock that was steep and overhanging on most sides. I did manage to see one line though that will go at hard 5.10, but looming above was a larger cliff so I decided to save it for another day.

 

For another day.

 

The cliff above looked great but still pretty featureless except for a couple of cracks and one blunt arete. The crack in the middle looked like a full body route and needed wide pro which the only piece that I had that might work for part of it was #3 Camelot and the blunt arete would probably need to be fixed with bolts, oh well more to chalk up for another day. To the right was Ass Crack 5.8 which was manageable with the gear I had. I cruised the first 30 or so feet at 5.4 and plugged in a piece. Step out of the crack to make some harder slab moves, but I couldn't make my way back to get gear so I made some shakey down climbing moves and tried a different approach. Groveling between to big butt cheeks was my other option which worked ok since I was able to get gear. Eventually made it to a good stance about 10 feet above my last piece. I had about 10 feet of featureless 5.10 slab climbing. With a somewhat big pendulum potential back into the ass crack I decided to take the chicken traverse to the right. Next time I might put a bolt in to make it a more direct line or just go for it, we'll see. Joeri followed up the route, after the grovel he opted for the chicken traverse as well so I didn't feel to bad for chickening out.

 

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Ass Crack is on the right the others are waiting to be climbed.

 

Granted the cliffs are not as big and expansive as Panga, but the rock quality was really good. I am looking forward to going back and doing more there.

 

The rest of the day was spent going to an area that I thought might offer some good bouldering, which it did. We managed about 15 problem in the V0 to V2 range and still left a lot to do there. For the most part we were alone there which is very rare in Rwanda, but eventually we were joined by a couple of guys who decided to give bouldering a try. It was fun hanging with them and showing them how to boulder. One guy learned really quick and was strong and did all of the problems we did, but in his dress shoes. An other guy managed to climb one problem that none of us could pull at the end of the day. He scared the hell out of all of us and I think himself on his 20 minute shakey, bellflop finish ascent and on the top exclaimed never again. We gave the guys a ride to there village and proceded to the next one which had a bar. Stopped and finished of the day with a warm Mutzig. Life is good.

 

Gear Notes:

Normal rack, next time bring some bolts so that I can do more leading.

 

Approach Notes:

Why would you care, you'll probably never make it here. If you do, I'll have a guide book completed at some point though for future climbers.

[G-spotter]

Awesome!

How can it be Switzerland without chocolate or trains though?

[DirtyHarry]

They've got warm mutzig. Close enough.

[Off_White]

No grass pitches, that stuff looks nice.

[plexus]

I love seeing the locals in the photos. It's fairly surreal to read the "yep decided to go cragging" reports from someplace completely different from anything you ever see.

 

I guess its tough to replace a cam if you drop it though.

[ken4ord]

Well we made it back out to Switzerland, and again freaking awesome day. I love this place and really looking forward to getting out there again soon. The great thing is that all the climbing I have done out here is all new routes, gotta love it. Again we spent the first half of the day doing routes and then had a picnic under the watchful eyes of the locals, then we broke out the Belgium beers and spliffs and bouldered until we could feel our arm. The next day I was sore everywhere, including my ribs. Made monday bearable. Ok ok, here's the pics.

 

Here is an overview picture of the hillside that we were climbing on. Neorock is where we were climbing before where Slippery Slab and other routes are. MILI Rock was a future route listed last time now done, Lower Rock I still need to check out. Big ass is where Ass Crack is located.

 

Now I am calling this MILI Rock for the route Move It or Lose It 5.10a.

 

Three new routes on the left side of Big Ass Rock range from 5.8-5.9.

 

Looking down at the crew and local company.