[TR] Vantage- Sunshine Wall Various Routes 3/26/2006

[catbirdseat]

Climb: Vantage-Sunshine Wall Various Routes

 

Date of Climb: 3/26/2006

 

Trip Report:

Headed out to Vantage Sunday morning with MCash and his buddy, Bruce. We had a grand old time climbing a total of 8 pitches. We each led 1 or 2 from 5.9-5.10b, and top roped some.

 

Saw a whole bunch of friends there: trogdortheburninator and beautiful wife Sam with their friend Aaron, James and Alexa, Gyselink, Jimbabwe and Rob, Mike Boyer and his group, Roboboy and AMS. Fun, fun, fun.

 

Weather was great. Warm for March with some high clouds and a little wind at times, but not bad.

 

Routes climbed: Crack in the back 5.6 (wide stemming, gear 1.5-4 inches), Pony Keg 5.9 (hands and fists 1-3"), Burning Spears, 5.10c, Go Cat Go 5.10b (thin crack with mostly face holds, hands at top), Yodmeister 5.10a (Martin's lead), Whale of the Wanapum 5.9 (Bruce's lead- hands to off-fists), and a 5.9 (TR, left of Red Hot Chilipeppers, hard hands to off-fingers).

 

Martin has the pictures.

 

Gear Notes:

Nuts, double set cams 0.5 -4".

[Gary_Yngve]

Does Go Cat Go have some bolts on it and a small roof about halfway up? It felt like a pretty stout lead when I hopped on it last weekend, but I suppose that's to be expected when one hasn't led any rock since September.

 

(I'm trying to put a name to the route, but I don't have a guidebook. I think it was within the vicinity of a bunch of spicy names and was a 10b with at least two stars.)

Edited March 27, 2006 by Gary_Yngve

[catbirdseat]

That's the one. It was first led on gear only, but JY came back and added four bolts. I was thankful for having them, as I wouldn't have hand the cohones to attempt something that stout without them.

[roboboy]

Here's cbs yesterday afternoon on Go Cat Go:

 

[gyselinck]

 

 

Got out there as well. Met catbirdseat for the first time. Didn't get to many climbs in for the amount of time we were there, but had fun. Warmed up on the classic bird poop offwidth, called Steel Grill.

 

Next we did Bob's Your Unlce.

 

 

Then Ryan did Stems & Seeds:

 

 

And we finished the day off with Red M&M:

 

[catbirdseat]

D00d! I asked you if you had ever led Red MM's and you said no. Then you went and did it! Crickey! Nice work!

[magellan]

Red M&M looks fun, what's the rating?

[catbirdseat]

(voice of Foghorn Leghorn) I say wake up, boy, you-a not payin' attention.

[MCash]

Craig on Bobs Your Uncle

 

 

Me on Yodmeister

 

 

Checking out Crack in the Back, a newly cleaned chimney on Kotick Memorial Wall with new anchors.

 

 

Brian on Go Cat Go

 

 

Lots of climbers out enjoying the warm sunshine.

 

[Weekend_Climberz]

Man, I've missed climbing out there at Vantage. I guess going on concert weekends is not a preferred method of touring the area. Can't wait to reaquaint myself with those wavey cracks.

[TrogdortheBurninator]

It was super windy at vantage on saturday night (luckliy we were sleeping in our van and the wind mostly died by morning). It was nice to see a bunch of people out on the rock. We climbed at riverview park/point on saturday afternoon and at sunshine wall on sunday. Pretty casual weekend, but a goodtime nonetheless. Unfortuneately my friend Aaron tweaked his shoulder first climb of the day on sunday.

 

More photo onslaught

 

 

 

fun with GIFS

[TrogdortheBurninator]

Out at vantage last weekend I noticed that Go Cat Go is now fully bolted.

[MCash]

That is silly. The upper crack takes perfect gear.

[powdrx]

I met Jim and Marlene first weekend of October while they were adding bolts to Go Cat Go. Climbed the route yesterday and it is a great route, even with the new bolts.

[MCash]

So you're condoning bolting a crack climb? WTF.

[Marty]

Umm, Martin.... My big, black, friend who just got out of prison for sodomizing and killing the last guy that chopped his route put those in. Be warned cause Tiny loves terrorizing little white men such as yourself.

[catbirdseat]

I'm calling a spade a spade. It's lame to bolt cracks. I don't care if a "good guy" like Yoder did it, or not. It's wrong.

 

The route can be led without the three or so original bolts, but the pro was tricky in spots, so I can grant some leeway for those three bolts, but not bolting a nice crack just because you don't want to bother with gear.

 

I'd still like confirmation that there were indeed bolts added.

[TrogdortheBurninator]

not sure what other confirmation you need. i saw the bolts and powderx saw them being installed.

[MCash]

Umm, Martin.... My big, black, friend who just got out of prison for sodomizing and killing the last guy that chopped his route put those in. Be warned cause Tiny loves terrorizing little white men such as yourself.

 

Whatever Marty. You don't intimidate me one bit, in person or over the internet. You don't even trad climb, so what would you know about ethics anyways.

[powdrx]

Well, we know who to talk to when they are chopped MCash. And what a waste of time that will be... how about climb the route and don't use the bolts if you don't want to. WHO CARES!!! Go climb, have fun, and if you are such a tough guy that you have to cut bolts, maybe you should be out putting up new routes in whatever fashion you desire. I thought the route was really fun with the bolts and it already had 5 bolts on it to begin with.

[powdrx]

I should clairfy my statements by saying that I would NOT have climbed the route without the bolts because I am not at 10b trad leader... yet. Like I said, I will come back to climb the route with gear when I can, but it was fun on Friday with bolts!! Maybe Jim and/or Marlene with chime in with their reasoning for the bolts...

[MCash]

1. I have climbed the route.

2. This has NOTHING to do with being a tough guy or manly. You really don't understand the term "climbing ethics" do you? Please educate yourself regarding the topic first.

 

I will contact Jim and find out what is up. I like the route and don't want to see it ruined. Is that so bad?

[powdrx]

Just because I don't spend most of my waking hours spraying all over this site does not mean I am not educated or don't have opinions. My tough guy comments were directed toward your immediate need to chop the bolts some "retard" put up because You don't like them. It is still perfectly climbable whether you clip or plug for protection... nothing has been "ruined".

I am interested to hear what the evil bolters have to say.

 

[ZONK]

Vantage, Washingtons 1st "Out Door Gym"

[MCash]

Just because I don't spend most of my waking hours spraying all over this site does not mean I am not educated or don't have opinions. My tough guy comments were directed toward your immediate need to chop the bolts some "retard" put up because You don't like them. It is still perfectly climbable whether you clip or plug for protection... nothing has been "ruined".

I am interested to hear what the evil bolters have to say.

 

By that misguided mentality, then maybe we should bolt every crack climb out there. Bolting crack climbs is WRONG, nothing you say will change that fact.