catbirdseat Posted March 20, 2006 Share Posted March 20, 2006 Climb: McClellan Butte- NE Couloir Date of Climb: 3/19/2006 Trip Report: On the last day of winter, Kevork, Atsuko, Bill and I decided to climb McClellan Butte by the NE Couloir last reported by Toast in 2004. We talked about trying the Exit 38 approach used by the skiers last week, but decided to go with the trail at Exit 42, because Bill had been that way five years before. We left the trail at about 3,500 ft, traversing right NW through trees a short distance to the couloir. We found the couloir full of unconsolidated snow from last week. There was about 18-24 inches of new on top of a harder layer. Climbing up this was pure drudgery. I was at one point in favor of bailing, at which point Kevork pointed out that "it doesn't have to be fun to be fun", using the not so immortal words of Mark Twight. I replied, "well this IS winter climbing", and we trudged onward, sometimes in boots and sometimes in snowshoes. The snow became somewhat firmer as we climbed and near the top of the couloir we began to penetrate to a much harder layer beneath. Kevork did a wonderful job of breaking trail almost the entire way. The guy is an animal. I hate so see what he's like when he is in shape! We roped up for the pitch of mixed climbing at the top of the couloir, placing a fluke and a crappy stubby ice screw as well as tying off two trees. Our route was on the left side of the summit. I used a lost arrow and a #9 hex to build an anchor. The summit had a nice view of the NF of Kent Mountain, which Gary_Yngve had recently reported on. It looked nice. Our decent was down the south ridge per Toast (roped-two pickets) to a col then down the east face to about 4,100. We picked up a nice snowshoe trail that quickly took us back to our departure point. Sorry no pictures. No one remembered to bring a camera. Gear Notes: Used 1 fluke, 2 pickets, 1 #5 LA, 1 #9 hex, slings for trees, crampons, 2 tools Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toast Posted March 20, 2006 Share Posted March 20, 2006 Excellent Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dalius Posted March 20, 2006 Share Posted March 20, 2006 Way to get a winter climb in last day of the season. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toast Posted March 20, 2006 Share Posted March 20, 2006 The Spring Equinox is on the 21st, so technically, today's the last day of Winter. Anybody besides Hannah make a successful winter ascent of Rainier this year? Now who were the fuckers ripping on the rest of us patting her on the back saying she didn't deserve it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ade Posted March 20, 2006 Share Posted March 20, 2006 Nice job... If you're winter climbing and having fun then something is clearly amiss. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted March 20, 2006 Share Posted March 20, 2006 The Spring Equinox is on the 21st, so technically, today's the last day of Winter. Sun crossed the equator at 10:25 AM (PST) this morning. Goodbye winter! Hello spring! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lunger Posted March 20, 2006 Share Posted March 20, 2006 cbs, what kind of condition was the E face in as you descended? baked by the sun, scary (avy-wise) at all? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
catbirdseat Posted March 20, 2006 Author Share Posted March 20, 2006 For you history buffs, I have something to add. We spotted some old iron artifacts lying discarded in the woods near Alice Creek not far below an old railroad grade. One of the pieces appears to be a firebox of some kind. The other, is round and quite heavy. Cast into it is the inscription Hutchinson, San Francisco, 1883. Does anybody know what these objects are about? I can only guess that they were either part of a locomotive or steam donkey or possibly some sort of machine used in the construction of the railway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
catbirdseat Posted March 20, 2006 Author Share Posted March 20, 2006 cbs, what kind of condition was the E face in as you descended? baked by the sun, scary (avy-wise) at all? Below the col, it only showed scant evidence of suface sloughing, but further to the east below the cliff bands there was more significant avalanche activity in the chutes, some of which might have occurred while we were on the route. By the time we crossed them, the sun was low in the sky and things were setting up hard again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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