billcoe Posted March 16, 2006 Share Posted March 16, 2006 Sounds like you have it pretty much together. If it was me, I'd avoid NE Buttress, Braile Book, Half dome, Central Pillar of Frenzy, East Buttress of Middle, Higher Spire, Arrowhead arete and Glacier Point. East Buttress of El Cap will most likely be cold-assed sopping wet and totally unclimbable too. Moby, Ahab, Pine Line and Sacherer would be good if there is no snow on the Captain up high on top - pay attention to that- assuming you are up for some of those grades, same with Serenity, Sons. If there is any snow on top, stay far away, a big chuck of ice which has fallen 3000 feet isn't something one wants to encounter normally. Safest and warmest: Assuming good weather I'd do: Day 1 - knob hill area, pizza. Day 2 - Sunnyside Bench Jamcrack and toprope Lazy Bum and Bummer which are right there or if the kids are feeling spry lead them: then Bishops Terrace and some bouldering right in that area, pizza: OR- All day at Schultzes ridge if the Captain has no snow peeling off from up high, pizza. Day 3 -Either Manure Pile (1st choice) or Royal Arches for a final days route would cap an awesome trip, pizza. I would expect Arches to be unclimbable with water running right down it, but you never know. Otherwise, it might be the 1st choice. Get on Arches early and suffer the cold which should end soon with the am sun. Expect the last pitch to be unclimbable at easy class 5 friction, dead serious, pass on it unless it's dry. Rap the route. I'd make sure anybody's who's been on that route went first with a topo, otherwise it would be the person with the best routefinding experience and 2 others. A party of 3 would have 2 ropes, more gear (doubled wired nuts and some full length 1" tied tubular runners should do it) than needed, and the ability to bail quickly with long raps on the 2 ropes. The final party would be the fastest and strongest and if needed a party of 3 as well. Should the worst occur mid route, the top party can bail, leaving some wireds as rap anchors along with tied off trees and bushes and pick up the kids below as they bail. I wouldn't treat it as a normal 5.6 for an outing like this, be prepared and pay attention. As a backup bad weather plan, I'd figure out some nice hikes (Mirror Lake yes, Captain/rim no) and also the best places to boulder, and we'd boulder during any sun breaks in between hanging out at Degnans and hiking. You sound like you are heading for a great trip, I envy you. Have fun Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
willstrickland Posted March 16, 2006 Share Posted March 16, 2006 If you wanna give them the real Yosemite local's experience, just stay shit-faced on malt liquor all day, spray in the caf until you've had 4 cups of stolen coffee and it's 11am, ride a bike down to El Cap meadow and bust out your plush lounging gear...crash pad, coolers, lounge chairs n such, puff a fat bowl and spray some more...head back to C4 and fall off two boulder problems, continue drinking malt liquor and smokin mad herb, find a campfire party and mooch liquor and fire warmth, stumble off to bed. Get up and do it again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rhodo_router Posted March 16, 2006 Share Posted March 16, 2006 I bet you don't get paid enough to drag 3 noobs up a Yosemite multipitch. I know I don't. My .02: 1) J-tree 2) Pat & Jack 3) Reed's 4) Knob Hill The Braille Book, that's funny. Ditto Snake Hike. The Central Pillar will absolutely be cold, likely wet, and probably 'schrunded. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted March 16, 2006 Share Posted March 16, 2006 ahhhh...forgot about pat and jack... snake hike would be fine...you could go skiing! hahahaha just kidding...we climbed cpf in early april, it was hilarious to start...wander up a snowbank with a 25 foot deep 4 foot wide gap to get to the start and sopping wet to boot...it dried up after about 15 feet of wetness and all other wet spots were avoidable from then on... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PBRstreetgang Posted March 17, 2006 Share Posted March 17, 2006 after six and after 7, i really liked the grack as well. are good and shouldent be too crouded this time of year. For tottal noobs I suggest going over to the apron, its usually less crouded and has some of the easer stuff in the vally. If you are in the area and the roads are clear you might want check out fresno dome its about an hour or so south of the south of yosemite on highway 41 above oakhurst/basslake area. its got several moderate multipitch routs and no crouds and better protection than most vally stuff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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