Gary_Yngve Posted March 13, 2007 Share Posted March 13, 2007 I think the easier face climbs at Vantage are pretty boring, jug jug jug. I think the harder ones are more interesting. Narlux (10c) is certainly not a straight-forward jugfest. The trad routes vary. The handcracks are usually not splitter with smooth walls inside, which to me, is not that aethetic (I only climb G&M to get to the top of Red M&Ms). I have high praises for Sensimilla (10c) and Steel Grill (5.9). Air Guitar is cool, but the jamming is too short. The first half of the route is basically a face climb, and there's one fist jam at the top. It's way easy for the grade. Bob's Your Uncle has a short but sweet 5.11a strenuous fingercrack/lieback at the top. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter_Puget Posted March 13, 2007 Share Posted March 13, 2007 (edited) Corner Pockets (5.10) has some good jams on it. Do a guy a favor and post ratings for some of the routes shown in the pics. This is a general comment about photos. How hard is Disaster? Edited March 13, 2007 by Peter_Puget Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary_Yngve Posted March 13, 2007 Share Posted March 13, 2007 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted March 13, 2007 Share Posted March 13, 2007 Air Guitar is cool, but the jamming is too short. The first half of the route is basically a face climb, and there's one fist jam at the top. It's way easy for the grade. Air Guitar is that 5.8 or 5.9? Its certainly not a 10! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
catbirdseat Posted March 13, 2007 Share Posted March 13, 2007 (edited) Yoder has Air Guitar down as a 5.10a. I would agree that it is easy for the rating. George and Martha is way harder for the same grade. Steel Grille is harder even though Yoder gives it a 5.9. Someone asked about Disaster Factor, 5.8. Both MCash and I think it's pretty stiff for the rating. Yoder has Sensemilla down as 5.10c. I was able to lead it and had never led at that level before. On the other hand stemming is something I do well. I've heard others say it's more like 5.10b. Edited March 13, 2007 by catbirdseat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary_Yngve Posted March 13, 2007 Share Posted March 13, 2007 I'd say 5.9 if you use face moves at the bottom. The "OW" move at the top is easier than the crux on Steel Grill. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted March 13, 2007 Share Posted March 13, 2007 I'd say 5.9 if you use face moves at the bottom. The "OW" move at the top is easier than the crux on Steel Grill. Why wouldn’t you use the face holds at the bottom? Why would a climber contrive it to be just the crack when other holds are within reach? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
catbirdseat Posted March 13, 2007 Share Posted March 13, 2007 In my book, if you can reach the crack you are using to protect the climb, the feature is "in". Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary_Yngve Posted March 13, 2007 Share Posted March 13, 2007 I'd say 5.9 if you use face moves at the bottom. The "OW" move at the top is easier than the crux on Steel Grill. Why wouldn’t you use the face holds at the bottom? Why would a climber contrive it to be just the crack when other holds are within reach? why climb? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
catbirdseat Posted March 13, 2007 Share Posted March 13, 2007 Dude, you can do whatever you like on lead, but when it comes to RATING a climb, it must be based on what features a reasonable person of average stature would use. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matt_m Posted March 13, 2007 Share Posted March 13, 2007 Lots of good stuff on mid east wall and no crowds. Jihad is a personal fav. Steel Pulse, Mr Clean Easy Off,Cold Cut Combo, Desert Dessert all top quality. Blue Autumn good - #6 Camalot for the crux and a #4 Big Bro or Valley cam for the top. No Anchor though which is a mild pain - but worth the trouble. Red M&Ms - just bring lots of small stuff and screamers... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted March 14, 2007 Share Posted March 14, 2007 In my book, if you can reach the crack you are using to protect the climb, the feature is "in". I agree....in my book everything is in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted March 14, 2007 Share Posted March 14, 2007 I'd say 5.9 if you use face moves at the bottom. The "OW" move at the top is easier than the crux on Steel Grill. Why wouldn’t you use the face holds at the bottom? Why would a climber contrive it to be just the crack when other holds are within reach? why climb? Very provocative question…..how about another question? Why post on this site Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
catbirdseat Posted March 14, 2007 Share Posted March 14, 2007 (edited) Lots of good stuff on mid east wall and no crowds. Jihad is a personal fav. Top roped it last weekend. It's a good one. There are lots of finger cracks at Middle East Wall. Blue Autumn good - #6 Camalot for the crux and a #4 Big Bro or Valley cam for the top. No Anchor though which is a mild pain - but worth the trouble. Got the #4 Big Bro. Hopefully I can borrow the #6. Actually, to tell the truth, I have yet to even top rope it. I hear it's hard. Edited March 14, 2007 by catbirdseat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary_Yngve Posted March 14, 2007 Share Posted March 14, 2007 Dude, you can do whatever you like on lead, but when it comes to RATING a climb, it must be based on what features a reasonable person of average stature would use. In the case of Air Guitar, the bottom can be climbed at 5.9 using faceholds well within reach. Avoiding any facehold definitely makes it harder. Actually, I'll be a dork. The last time I was at Vantage, I speed-toproped Air Guitar, from both feet on ledge (not boulder) to slapping the chains in 1m37s. If anyone wants to play the game of trying to do it faster, it might be fun in the "Uncage the Soul" Colorado lamer sort of way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
archenemy Posted March 14, 2007 Share Posted March 14, 2007 I'd say 5.9 if you use face moves at the bottom. The "OW" move at the top is easier than the crux on Steel Grill. Why wouldn’t you use the face holds at the bottom? Why would a climber contrive it to be just the crack when other holds are within reach? why climb? Very provocative question…..how about another question? Why post on this site Why try to reason with an idiot? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
archenemy Posted March 14, 2007 Share Posted March 14, 2007 Dude, you can do whatever you like on lead, but when it comes to RATING a climb, it must be based on what features a reasonable person of average stature would use. In the case of Air Guitar, the bottom can be climbed at 5.9 using faceholds well within reach. Avoiding any facehold definitely makes it harder. Actually, I'll be a dork. The last time I was at Vantage, I speed-toproped Air Guitar, from both feet on ledge (not boulder) to slapping the chains in 1m37s. If anyone wants to play the game of trying to do it faster, it might be fun in the "Uncage the Soul" Colorado lamer sort of way. Dorkiness is good. I have a buddy whom I dork out with and we will do easy climbs and impose lame restrictions on each other. For example, we may say, "Ok, this lap you can't use your left hand" or exclude a key hold. So ghey that it's embarrassing to talk about--but really super fun! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
W Posted March 14, 2007 Share Posted March 14, 2007 In my book, if you can reach the crack you are using to protect the climb, the feature is "in". Invention is always fun while cragging, but as soon as the going gets too rough, I like to invoke this magic phrase: "if I was in the mountains, I'd use it!" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fenderfour Posted March 19, 2007 Share Posted March 19, 2007 If I can hit it on the way down, it's in on the way up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
catbirdseat Posted March 19, 2007 Share Posted March 19, 2007 If I can hit it on the way down, it's in on the way up. No underclings for you then! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fenderfour Posted March 19, 2007 Share Posted March 19, 2007 I spent the weekend in Vantage. I climbed Air Guitar using the crack, just to see how it was. It still wasn't very hard. Tangled Up in Blue was more difficult as was Steel Grill, althought Steel Grill had great rests. BTW - I'm not smart enough to use underclings. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr_Phil Posted March 19, 2007 Share Posted March 19, 2007 Arguing about grades is like running in the Special Olympics. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fenderfour Posted March 19, 2007 Share Posted March 19, 2007 Arguing about grades is like running in the Special Olympics. I'm not arguing, just making an observation. Speaking of Special Olympics... NSJ8gUsaJuo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
catbirdseat Posted March 19, 2007 Share Posted March 19, 2007 Way to get down to the music! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sexual_chocolate Posted March 19, 2007 Share Posted March 19, 2007 rad man, people actually moving to music! in seattle it's a bunch of shoe-gazers, too embarrassed or hip to have a good time. sucks to see metal or thrash or such with that type of audience. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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