slothrop Posted May 28, 2002 Share Posted May 28, 2002 Went to Castle Rock for a day with my girlfriend, partner, and his two friends. We climbed Midway (really the shallow corner to the right of the offwidth on the 2nd pitch), Jello Tower S. Face, and Saber, and the other two guys got on Canary, too. There is a big block waiting to be pulled off a ledge halfway up the 2nd pitch of Saber Weather was perfect and raptors whirled in the thermals above us. My girlfriend kicked ass her first time climbing a multipitch route One of the guys in the party who beat us to Canary wrecked his shoulder on the move out around the roof and the guys we came with had to retrieve their gear, as the leader was in no condition to belay his partner up to clean it. My partner took a short fall on the S. Face route and pulled a badly placed Alien, only to be caught by a brand-new Micro Camalot... his next stop would have been the ground. A fun day, but for some reason no one wanted to stop for a beer and chow in town. Where's a good place to eat at 10 o'clock in 11worth? [ 05-27-2002, 06:58 PM: Message edited by: slothrop ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lambone Posted May 28, 2002 Share Posted May 28, 2002 Nice man! We climbed at Duty Dome on Sunday and had the whole thing to ourselves! Anyone know what that new route to the right of "Off Duty" is? It felt 5.10ish, but it'd be nice to know for sure. Great route! Today we qued up on Givlers Crack, for the first time. Pretty nice indeed, though I'm not a big fan of slopey domes. We were the tird of four parties this morning. Nice weekend for Leavenworth, although town was a freakin zoo! Drive home took 4 hours Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slothrop Posted May 28, 2002 Author Share Posted May 28, 2002 Yeah, the town was nuts. It was my first time there, and we didn't even go near the gingerbread and lederhosen shops. There's nothing wrong with wurst and beer, but this was a bit much. The tourist crowd clogging the rest stop just after Cle Elum was creepy, too. Some chick in the parking lot of the gas station told us we should come river rafting "if we're bored" . There were a couple kayakers in our party, and they went nuts over the whitewater. Anyone know of a good swimmin hole in Tumwater Canyon? It would have been nice to soak my smelly feet after a day of climbing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedMonk Posted May 28, 2002 Share Posted May 28, 2002 hey dude- i remember you guys....we climbed that after you bailed....sorry about the shoulder....yeah it was a great day....where were the crowds? not that i'm complaining....but no-one was theere on laborday weekend.... oh well great weekend Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crackhead Posted May 28, 2002 Share Posted May 28, 2002 The duty dome is cool. Did you see the two routes in the corner to the left of off duty? there is a bolted 5.8 up the arete, and a 5.9ish dihedral corner. Both have excellent anchors. good climbing. The climb on the right of off duty has too many bolts. There are great places for natural pro the whole way up... good climbing though...reminds me of condorphamine... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lambone Posted May 28, 2002 Share Posted May 28, 2002 Crackhead, Yeah, eyeballed those other two routes, but was feeling spanked by Off Duty and the other. It's hard to judge the grade of those slabby things. 5.8 and 5.9, damn... next time I guess. I thought the bolts were placed pretty well. Most were on blanck face. The middle one was sorta near good gear, then the top two were also on the face. Those climbs are cool. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crackhead Posted May 28, 2002 Share Posted May 28, 2002 I enjoyed all of the climbs there. I was intimidated mostly by the rusty 1/4 inch spinners, but thought the climbing was easy on Off Duty. Make sure and do the climbs to the left... not intimidating. lots of great bolts. Does anyone know the names and grades of all these? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slothrop Posted May 28, 2002 Author Share Posted May 28, 2002 Naw, the guy who hurt his shoulder wasn't with us... I wonder what happened to him? There were much fewer people there than I expected. We got to the parking lot at noon and only one other car was there! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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