[TR] Tumwater Canyon- Drury Falls 2/18/2006

[Kyle_Flick]

Climb: Tumwater Canyon-Drury Falls

 

Date of Climb: 2/18/2006

 

Trip Report:

Curt Haire and I attempted a one day ascent of Drury Falls on Saturday, but conditions (falling ice) prevented us from completing the upper falls. Forecast was for well below freezing temperatures on Saturday which bode well for things remaining in place all day. We came to find out that the clear skies were a blessing for navigation in the dark, but a curse as the sun warmed the area regardless of the purported temperatures.

The river crossing gave my old sea kayak a chance to come out of mothballs and function as an ice breaker to break through the accumulated ice on the opposite shore and enable me to ferry our packs and partner across. We started hiking after 2:00 am and reached the lower bivy site at the base of the first pitch less than three hours later. We hung out awaiting the sunrise. Small stuff was coming down regardless of the cold early morning temps, but we figured the bigger stuff would stay in place.

We finally summoned our energy and I led out the first pitch of WI2+ around 7:00 am. Once I topped out, a small section of the bottom of the next tier of falls, which was in the early morning sun, collapsed in a lump of slush with ice cubes strafing the area around me. I didn't want to set an anchor while remaining in the line of fire; so we simulclimbed to the second spacious bivy/camping spot in the trees climber's right.

By the time Curt came up, I figured we were done for the day due to the looks of the bottom of the second pitch. But Curt found solid ice to the left of the missing bottom of pitch 2 and headed up what was a fun pitch of WI3.

We reached the base of the main falls and watched bigger debris raining down on our intended route on the left side. The first pitch of the main falls looked like WI4 and the top pitch looked like sustained WI5, but it wasn't to be on this day.

We began descending around 11:00 a.m. and were back to the the base of the lower falls after 4 double rope raps an hour later. It should be noted that Glen Frese showed us an alternate route off the right side of the upper falls which only requires one rap and walk down a large ledge to the trees on the left side for the lower falls.

The walk down the gully was uneventful except to briefly stop and admire (i.e, gulp at) the size of the avalanche debris that would clobber any unlucky soul caught in there at the wrong time.

 

Now, a few pics.

 

Overview of the lower part of the route (1st pitch and bivy site):

 

 

Kurt Haire next to pitch 2:

 

Kurt on lead;

 

 

Gear Notes:

Ice screws, stoppers, cams to 1"

 

Approach Notes:

Cross Wenatchee River 200 yards upstream of Falls Creek outlet.

[rat]

peter and i saw your car early on saturday....glad to hear you survived. i think a lot of those slopes slid over the weekend.

 

for those still interested in emphemeral washinton ice, i just took a short drive and here's a sampling of what's "in 'n thin" in worthleavin':

some smears on pearly gates crag,

dog dome dike,

the wi3 route near the rock climb "lazy boy",

the rat creek climbs,

hubba hubba,

the smear and the second pitch of the silver tongue (we did a fine mixed pitch below it earlier in the winter).

 

i didn't drive to check hidden lake but i bet all those routes are fat.

[goatboy]

Great Pictures, thanks for the report!

[DirtyHarry]

Sounds like a prudent decision to bail.

[Kyle_Flick]

Some better shots of the falls to keep the ice stoke,yo!

 

Almost the complete Drury:

 

Upper Drury:

 

Descent Ramp:

 

Sweet bivi site at the base of Drury: