Mos_Chillin Posted February 22, 2006 Share Posted February 22, 2006 So, I found this crappy little crag out here. It has discontinuous, fractured cracks: good for laybacks, tenuous locks, and stacks, but no good for gear. It is long enough to be leadable, and the foilage/slope discourages top-roping. I am in an ethical quandry.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
111 Posted February 22, 2006 Share Posted February 22, 2006 bolt the shit out of it! Ever hear of grid bolting?!? but really, what kind of rock is it? Read up on Gritstone ethics in England for a similar quandry.. crazy englsh bahstahds! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mos_Chillin Posted February 22, 2006 Author Share Posted February 22, 2006 It's your typical fractured island rhyolite (sp?). Top-rope anchors are unfeasable due to access on top. Grid bolting? What's that? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Distel32 Posted February 22, 2006 Share Posted February 22, 2006 logically you should have at least 3 bolts per sq/m of wall, once you finish please invite pope and dwayner to climb on your wall. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drederek Posted February 22, 2006 Share Posted February 22, 2006 I am in an ethical quandry.... "Ethics are for the valley" You're on an island Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
111 Posted February 22, 2006 Share Posted February 22, 2006 grid bolting is when you cover a face with bolts so thoroughly that you could lead a traverse across it with the same amount of protection that you could lead upwards with Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dechristo Posted February 22, 2006 Share Posted February 22, 2006 Bolt the whole face Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blake Posted February 23, 2006 Share Posted February 23, 2006 No, don't put bolts on your trashy little crag. go lead decent routes, and toprope your choss-pile from anchors above. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Distel32 Posted February 23, 2006 Share Posted February 23, 2006 fuckin' overseas posters! get off your computer and go to fucking castle hill already! jesus blake Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ken4ord Posted February 23, 2006 Share Posted February 23, 2006 Yeah or go ride a yak. Little different angle on the bolting. I got limited resources here, but there is a Hilti store, can someone reccomend which Hilti bolts to get, grade, length, type, size got's to be 3/8 cause that is what I have for a bit?????? Help? Ok now I am off to go wrestle a mountain gorilla. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Distel32 Posted February 23, 2006 Share Posted February 23, 2006 the ever elusive overseas poster TRIFECTA! best thread ever Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soulreaper Posted February 27, 2006 Share Posted February 27, 2006 Not the place, obviously, to receive even a remotely useful answer. However, I will attempt: Mos: the best idea would be to get a second opinion on how protectable the climbing is with gear. No one can issue an opinion here without seeing the rock. Also, no one can tell you not to establish routes in a place with no "established" ethic, obviously; you'll have to use your judgement about where to bolt or how many comprise a "safe" line. A 20 foot runout on easy ground, for instance, is "safe" for some and not for others, depending on many factors. Ken4ord: if you're serious, check out the ASCA website (www.safeclimbing.org) and the EDUCATION section. They recommend Hilti HSL (sleeve expansion anchors; 12mm, so not compatible with your 3/8 setup) and another Hilti 3/8" wedge bolt. Not sure about the grade (I'm assuming stainless steel, regardless), but I'm sure you can find answers on there. Length of bolt will depend on rock type, as will the style of the bolt (wedge, sleeve, etc.). Now watch as everyone tries to flame me down for offering an honest opinion. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ken4ord Posted February 27, 2006 Share Posted February 27, 2006 Thanks man, I'll check out that site. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mos_Chillin Posted February 27, 2006 Author Share Posted February 27, 2006 Thanks for the beta. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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