Kayland M11 boots

[terrible_ted]

Hi:

 

I spent the last week up in the Lake Louise/Banff/Canmore area, and a few days of temps down to -40 (pick your scale) drove us to the base of some CL 6 gear shops (Credit Limit 6). Armed with a handful of LostVisas, MasterCard stubbies and a cash hammer, we scaled the fearsome heights of Banff and Canmore's heavily picked-out shops, hoping for some deals.

 

Mountain Magic in Banff had the Kayland M11's on closeout for $339 Can. I wasn't familiar w/Kayland, and in fact, I was kind of holding out for Asolo's "Cholatse" boots, which are due to be released late March (nice timing ), after trying them at Ouray this year. I find that I just cannot make my feet abide by La Sportiva's skinny-ass toe deck. I wanted new boots that were lightweight, waterproof(able), stiff enough for ice and flexible enough to wear on approach. The M11's seemed to be pretty comparable to the Cholatse in general build, and they fit pretty well, so I went for it.

 

The Kaylands delivered. I hiked in through sometimes deep snow at -15 F using them with 2 pairs of socks and my feet stayed warm. I climbed WI4 @ -5 F using 1 pair of socks and toe warmers without a problem. I submerged them up to the ankle over a half dozen times on a sloppy, slushy stream approach and my socks stayed dry. My BD Bionics grip them well, although the front bail needs to be molded to accomodate the narrower profile of the Kayland boot. I can't say anything about the long-term durability, but the Kaylands have met my immediate needs well. I still have a little heel slip, which I'm hoping a molded insert will eliminate. I have very narrow heels and have yet to find another boot that matches my duck shaped feet (wide toe deck, narrow heels) better. My pair (US 10.5) weighs 4#, 6oz (1984g) for the pair, including the laces and the stock insert.

 

I'm putting this up here because I haven't seen a lot of info about Kayland here in Washington.

 

Best regards,

 

-t

[John Frieh]

 

I was in the same area last weekend

 

I've had a pair of M11s since Fall05... my observations in this short span:

 

Fit: fits me well... I also have the flat/wide foot. For reference I fit well into Scarpa and Trango but La Sportiva kills me. If you fit well into this description consider checking out a pair next time you are boot shopping.

 

Warmth: I hate offering warmth commentary as everyone is so different... I tend to be warmer then average but not a heat engine like some people I know... With that said I have climbed comfortable down to -15 F +/- 5 degrees wearing a thin liner and climbing sock combo and had no issues of cold feet. I did have on more torso layers though... All in all the primaloft insulation seems to do well.

 

Waterproofing: very little on the boot is actually leather... most of it is kevlar/shark handler material that doesn't seem to absorb Nikwax (I use this: link) that well however the boot overall is very waterproof... the gaiter is a nice add on.

 

Drying them out: seem to dry out overnight about as fast as any other brand... aren't faster or slower than any other brand...

 

Long-term durability: yes I haven't own the boots that long but to date I have noticed the following...

 

- the kevlar gets super fuzzy over time. I found after applying a coat of nikwax and then lighting it on fire for a second scorches all the fuzzies off. Make sure to blow it out quickly

 

- the material in the ankle seems to be holding up well to lots of flexing/rotating... kinda depends on your perception but I've been told I drytool a lot. Drytooling footwork seems to flex the boot in ways approaching and ice climbing don't and cause the boot to get soft in the ankle. Basically the fabric seems to do well.

 

- Rubber Rand: my biggest concern to date... the rubber slowly peeled back at each toe on top... I can't tell if it was a poor application or the rand was stretched too tight that caused this... my suspicion is the kevlar is hard to get a good bond too. I sent the boots to Dave Page and he glued them back on well (with a quick turn around ). I can post pics if anyone is interested.

 

- etc: someone who shall remain nameless dropped a tool that managed to bounce and pierce my boot in the heel. The pick penetrated approximately 4 inches and lodged itself perfectly between my foot and the inside of the boot. The only resulting damage was a thin slit from the pick cutting in. I plan to seal the hole with goop and call it good.

 

All in all a good boot... I think if Kayland more aggressively pursued the US market they would hold a larger share... perhaps that will change in the coming years.

[sitandbefit]

Sorry about to get off the topic of the thread, great reviews so far.

 

If I mate these with my M10 crampons, will I be limited to climbing M10 or can I climb to the boots capacity of M11? Or is there a duplicating effect where I can now climb M21 (previously only climbable in Vail and lycra-infested parts of Europe).

 

I only ask because of my recent injuries from using a 5.10 climbing shoe outside of its recommended parameters.

 

Thank you,

 

Matt

[John Frieh]

 

As you are from Wyoming no amount of M named gear will help you until you start devoting at least half the amount of time you kids already spend "sheep herding" to training

 

Unless of course you can find a way to put a sheep at the chains

[kurthicks]

[quoteI was in the same area last weekend

 

so was I. where was everyone? the Canmore was hoppin'.