Ingalls east peak beta needed

[highclimb]

ok well the weekend is looking shitty and i have a great idea. traverseing all three of ingalls peaks starting with the east peak and ending with the hik up the south peak.

now my Q is this......my plan is to climb up the Dike/Chimney that connects to the east ridge of the East Peak and climb the east ridge to the summit. but for desending i would desend the Southwest face to connect with the East ridge of the North peak. any beta on my proposed Ascent route and Descent route? thank you very much

Aidan

[highclimb]

being a loser again and trying to keep this at the top of the board.....sorry

thank you in advance for any information

[highclimb]

damn..no one

[fredrogers]

Aidan-

Check the Becky book for the area. I know he has routes for all three Ingalls peaks in it. If I recall correctly, there is a class 4 gulley up the east peak from the lake, as well as a harder route, but my memory has faded prematurely.

[goatboy]

Haven't climbed the East Peak, but have climbed the East Ridge of the North Peak and observed, from the ridgecrest/notch just below the East Summit, that there were a few fixed anchors (or nests of abandoned slings) that should facilitate descending the East Peak once you summit.

The climb along the East Ridge of the North Peak is pleasant, once you're on the ridge crest -- sounds like you'll avoid the approach gully, which was nothing short of loose and unpleasant if not unsafe. The so-called 5.7 step near the end of the East Ridge didn't seem hard to me, though there were several variations evident, some of which could have been harder.

Post a Trip Report when you return!

By the way, there is a summit register atop the South Peak (walkup) -- none atop the North Peak -- and who knows atop the East Peak.

Good luck.

[highclimb]

ok well Dan Smith and I set off saturday morning at 7 from the parking lot. we arrived at the lake at about 8:30 and desided to head up the Dike/Chminey....this is what becky calls 3/4 class climbing to were it joins the east ridge. YEAH RIGHT! Dan headed up this thing which was low fifth class for alittle bit but then turned into (5.9 alittle overhanging crumbly rock) so we bailed. we should have gone with an idea we had thought of early in the day at ingalls pass.

our idea was to just hike up the the lower part of the East Ridge of the East peak and climb it from there. it probably wound be the way i do it next time. oh well!

so we hiked down and around back up to the gully below the notch of the North and East Peak and headed up the East Ridge of the North peak. This route was great! i dont know why people bother going up the south face. we got to the summit and lay around eating and soaking in the beutiful day. not a cloud in the sky. we scrambled down too the rappel anchors and saw that there were about 9 or 10 people on the south face.....we talked it over and just desided to down climb it. not difficult but make sure not to fall....because its a long way down. if i did it in the future i would probably lower while putting in pro and then belay the follower down....but it was to crowded.

Aidan

[This message has been edited by highclimb (edited 09-27-2001).]

[Cpt.Caveman]

Nice work what is the pro size?