Ingalls Conditions

[nierman]

Hey, anybody been into Ingalls that cares to share what the approach/route conditions are like? Thinking of heading up midweek with a buddy to jump on the ever popular 5.4 climb.

Cheers,

Doug

[Rick]

Hello! we did Ingalls sunday the 20th! the climb was good, but we did alot of post holing on the approach! if you have snowshoes or skis, take them! I think the first pitch was still snowed in? the rest was good!! go for it!!! Rick

quote:

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Originally posted by nierman:

Hey, anybody been into Ingalls that cares to share what the approach/route conditions are like? Thinking of heading up midweek with a buddy to jump on the ever popular 5.4 climb.

Cheers,

Doug

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[N.A.]

Went in Friday night by headlamp and bivied at Ingalls Pass. Great night, no wind, and mild temps, but climbers there the night before said the wind was up something fierce.

We left camp this (Saturday) morning at around 7:00am. The approach was all snow and had set up perfectly the night before. We were the first on the rock and the climb was grand. Be sure to try the 5.6 crack variant (second pitch). Great pro, little tight for my boots, but otherwise the nicest line on the route. Bring a jacket up with you, though -- you'll want it for the last belay.

By the time we left the place was a zoo. No less than 8 rope teams were either on the rock or on the approach as we walked out. Go early, leave early, and enjoy that fab view of Mt Stuart.

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John McDougall

Seattle, WA

[nolanr]

I've spent the night at Ingalls Pass or the Ingalls Lake basin (don't tell anybody, but the lake was still buried under snow, so I didn't bother any delicate vegetation) twice, and the wind was ripping both times. Seems like that might be the norm there, if you're planning to do an overnighter.

[specialed]

Nolanr, would you say there was enough snow still in the Ingalls lake basin when you were up there to ski ? if so, could you speculate whether there was enough snow there that there would be some left after this semi-warm week we are currently having? Any beta would def. be appreciated.

[erik]

e ridge is much more entertaining then the s face. we simul-climbed it last year and only clipped one piece of gear, it happend to belong to the people in front of us. they left it, cause they couldn't clean it. #1 camalot. i gave it back to them but kept the biner! avoid the crowds and do this route. plus the traverse of all the ingalls peaks is a good one too! i would recommend walking off the west side and not rapping the face to avoid the cluster-fuck that is caused by huge parties pushing thier limits.

[This message has been edited by erik (edited 06-19-2001).]

[nolanr]

Sorry Specialized, that was last year, and it was just before and then during Memorial Day weekend. Couldn't tell you what the conditions are like right now. Not a skier anyway, but I could tell you when the snow is ideal for stand-up glisading.

[Zee]

Climbed the east ridge (in Nelson's new book) on Sunday. A beautiful day- sunny & warm! Snow at the basin but it's very consolidated. The east ridge is not a bad climb with some nice exposure and mostly mid-fifth class climbing. The guide says there's a 5.7 "unprotectable" section but that's not the case. More like 5.5-5.6. While everyone was doing the south face, there was only one other party on the route. It's a good route for conditioning, simul-climbing, and practicing swapping leads with a new alpine rock climber, etc. Cheers!