Good rock shoes for narrow feet?

[Jake_Gano]

I have been climbing on the same older scarpa infernos for a few years now and had them resold about a year ago. After I got them back the fit of the toebox changed some. Between that and the stiffening of the leather with age, they pretty much grind up my feet.

 

Earlier this fall I went down to hyperspud and tried on every shoe they had there in my size. About every one in my size seemed to have saggy fabric on the tops and sides of the shoe. I have very narrow foot and very flat arches. Anyways, I settled on a pair of five-ten coyote lace ups because they fit the best, but a few months later I still end up wearing the Scarpa the vast majority of the time. Comfort aside, everything the Coyotes can do the Scarpas can to better.

 

So does anyone else out there with long flat feet have favorite shoes? Things I like:

 

-Lace-up seems like a must for narrow feet

-I noticed the scarpas have a sharply curved sole, while the five-tens are pretty much flat. I think that gives it some extra aggressiveness smearing.

-For the scarpas, With the exception of where the laces are, the toes and about the first third of your foot is completely wrapped in rubber. This is great for jamming your toes or most of your feet into cracks and twisting on them.

 

Any ideas?

[Jake_Gano]

Also, does any have experience with evolv shoes? I knew the climbing club here at the UI gets a deal with them. They look solid, I could pick some up cheap, and they are made in the US by a small company.

[andrewbanandrew]

My feet aren't especially narrow but they're slightly narrower than normal and I fit La Sportiva shoes really well. Try the women's versions; they're typically narrower. The downside to this, of course, is having baby-blue colored rock shoes. But after a while the mud and dirt just makes them look gray.

[kurthicks]

I found that evolvs fit a lot like 5.10s without the stretch (since they're synthetic for vegans). so if they fit well out of the box, then they'll stay that way which is a good thing. good luck finding a place to try them on though. they seem to be reasonably well constructed and i know a handful of people who really like them.

[Jake_Gano]

Thanks for the info Andrew, Kurt.

 

As for sportivas, their shoes and boots have never seemed to fit me, at least not as well as 5.10s or scarpas.

 

Kurt, I take it that you have a pair from your post? If so where did you find them and try on? Anyways, I'll drop you a PM later, I'm stuck in the midwest with the fam over break and have lots of time to sit behind a computer and scheme up the next big adventure. Maybe if conditions get better we can find some ice to climb. Thanks.

[andrewbanandrew]

I have noticed that 5.10 and Evolv fit similarly. I'd speculate that the lasts are shaped such that they're more ideal for people who have second toes that are either as long or longer than their big toe. I've noticed the same thing with Montrail shoes as well.

 

I fit Scarpa pretty well so I don't really know. What La Sportiva models have you tried?

[Distel32]

anasazi lace ups. I have narrow feet and they are the most comfortable bestest shoes.....yeah

 

seriously! Try em out.

[Jake_Gano]

Thanks all for the advice. I can't remember the names of the Sportiva models I tried aside from the Mythos (did anyone see the pic of one of the hubers soloing some 5.14 maddness in mythos in the last alpinist? ). Anyways, I will look into the anasazi lace ups, thanks distel. They look a little spendy but I don't mind throughing down the $$$ for a good rock shoe if I've finally found what I'm looking for.

[Distel32]

yeah the price might hurt a bit, but they are the only 5.10 shoes that I've never had fall apart.