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The Tooth


chucK

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Yet one more ascent of the Tooth yesterday (March 23). We did the South Face via the East gully of Pineapple Pass. Really perfect conditions. Of course that might be changing today. There was a bit of sun-induced snowfall off of the SE face into and below the Pineapple gully, but otherwise there's not that much sun on the approach to induce slides.

We left the TH at about 6:45 and were able to hike all the way up in hiking boots. Just a bit of postholing in the trees, and some real icy ski-trails down low. The Pineapple Pass gully got sorta scary near the top with no crampons, rope or second tool. I dropped a rope to my partner. No snow on the rock route except for the third-class part.

I'm not used to rappelling the route (I usually walk down the North Ridge) and found that a 60m rope would've been a bit more convenient in linking the top two rap stations. In the summer I guess there is easy ground between where you would rap off of a 50m and the next station, but right now you have to get down a bit of steep snow.

The return trip felt like it could've been posthole city had we not brought snowshoes.

chucK

[This message has been edited by chucK (edited 03-24-2001).]

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My wife Kirsten and I climbed the S. Face on Thursday, 3/22, in beautiful weather. We saw only one other party (three people led by "River" who we passed on our descent). Nice folks. We were in no hurry all day as it was so gorgeous, and still made it car-to-car in 6.5 hours. All in all, the route is great right now, though probably wet this week.

John Sharp

[This message has been edited by MrGoodTime (edited 03-26-2001).]

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Scott: I gathered from River's friend whom I chatted with at a belay that he and River had recently spent time in Australia and Fiji (I think) surfing and travelling. They had a woman with them on the climb who I believe they met while travelling, and who I believe is Japanese. River's friend said River is in construction. Does this sound like your the River you knew?

John

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