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Posted

i have checked out little tahoma a couple times and i just recently started checking in to the north and northeast face. my question is have either of these seen a second ascent? i read that one of them has only been climbed once back in the fifties or sixties. Either way in a couple of weeks i am going to go up and check it out, somthings gonna go.

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Posted

In summer, there's no doubt the North Face is a death route. In winter, it might go. Any info/topo etc on the North Face would be useless due to the amount of falling rock. 1700' of shitty rock. mmmm...

 

I think the NE face gets climbed every now and then. It's more difficult than the regular route (East face) but waaayy easier than the North.

Posted

I really doubt that you will find the North face in ice climbing condition. There's no way for a large amount of ice to get there. I would expect frozen cracks and loose rock even when frozen. Bring a rack that includes pitons and a huge pair of testicles.

 

And tell us how it was

Posted

Yes, the N face proper was climbed at least a second time by George Dunn and Eric Simonson, circa 1976ish. I would imagine the NE face has seen a number of ascents.

 

The W Ridge (Grade VI-V, 5.8ish), was climbed in winter by Paul Cook (RIP) & team in the '80s. Lots of ups and downs. Yoder's also did a new route up one of those W face gullies some years ago as well.

 

The Dunn & Simonson's climb, if I remember right, experienced hard snow, rock scrambling/climbing, and some of it was very exposed and run out. Think they used pickets for pro. I think Van Steen's Rainier guide book shows a photo of their climb.

 

I would think the route to be in shape after a good amount of snow...later season...after there's been a chance for the snow to harden up...and during a cold spell to minimize rockfall danger.

 

If you go, be sure to post a TR.

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