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Posted

Last time I was up there, if I understand where you're talking about, I found a 3rd class way up the last bit. There is a soutfacing headwall with a big ledge below it. I took the ledge all the way to the right then up a short little very easy dihedral up to another ledge system that runs up and left (west). Follow that all the way up and around the corner then there's a big flake thing you can squeeze behind. That gets you onto easy broken ground just below the summit.

 

I definitely ran into places below that where I thought it was 5th class and didn't find a way to bypass them. Two steps above the notch. One was a nice handcrack in a RFC so I didn't really bother to try to find a way around.

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Posted

Chuck - sounds like the ticket. Fog, low light, wanna get on top. Both times we said "this looks good" Both times ended up saying there must be an easier scramble up. Thanks.

Posted

OK. I've been up the WR twice. Once from the bottom, once from the the glacier route. Both times after tromping up some 2-3 class stuff towards the top we came across a short (60 ft) wall at the end. It was foggy both times and I don't think we went up the standard way. Seems like the first time it was a half pitch at about 5.9 and second time an easier way was around 5.4. I don't remember any mention of technical climbing once on the easy stuff. So, facing the summit, is there a class 3-4 way around to the left or something? I'm tempted to go again just for to check it out. Thanks.

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