Smith ?'s

[turn_one]

planing a trip t-giving through the weekend. i have never been, know nothing about the area so i have a few questions if ya'll have the time. i assume i won't be under 10ft. of snow and it'll be warmer than anywhere up here, so...

 

-route/area recommendations for 5.7-5.10 trad & multi pitch good, 'gotta do it' sport stuff ok too

-is it dog friendly

-bad weekend to avoid crowds?

 

i've got access to a guide but haven't looked at it yet, as has my laziness kept me from researching this any further than here so thanks for any info.

 

somebody wanna move this to the rock climbing forum?

Edited November 10, 2005 by turn_one

[hemp22]

The weather should be fine at Smith over thanksgiving. it'll be cold at night and in the mornings, but no, there probably won't be snow on the ground.

 

I'd imagine it'll be somewhat crowded because of the long weekend, but that'll depend somewhat on the forecast.

 

Dogs are supposed be leashed and in the owner's control at all times (and this means the leash actually being held by a person, not tied to a tree or anchored in the rock). So as long as you keep control of them and they're not unfriendly dogs, then yes it is dog-friendly.

 

for routes - just peruse the guidebook and see what jumps out at you, but here are some starter recommendations:

Spiderman - 5.7 2p

Sky Chimney or Sky Ridge - 5.7 3p each

Lion's Jaw - 5.8 1p

Monkey Face West Face Variaion - 5.8 3p

Out of Harm's Way - 5.8 1p

Moonshine Dihedral - 5.9 1p

Whereever I May Roam - 5.9 5p (All Bolted)

Zebra/Zion - 5.10a 4-5p

Thin Air - 5.9 or 10a 3-4p (way the hell up on Koala Rock - starts trad but the last couple pitches are bolted I think)

 

i'm sure other people will have some favorites too.

Edited November 10, 2005 by hemp22

[MCash]

Karate Crack

Pack Animal, Direct Start

Crack of Infinity

[billcoe]

Hemps advise is good: (sky ridge might be windy and cold though) If you make it to thin air, and that area is very dawg friendly: there are some real nice shorter routes in that area which you can view from the ground and decide to jump on or not: must do's right there in that area - Delirium Tremons called 10A but it's probably a well protected 10b or C and Round River like 5.4? .

 

If you make it over to the west face of monkee and Spiderman per the recommendations above, there are lots of routes in that area which are real sweet, area is somewhat dog friendly: take a shot at Monkee Farce 10B takes thin wireds and aliens, Moons of Pluto is a bolted 10d that should be good later in the day when the sun hits it.

 

The warmest place will be the dihedrals as the sun hits there first and it's protected somehwat and you will most likly find it a crowded not so dog frindly place (less people now than earlier though), but it's crowded cause its warm and the routes are good. And theres a lot of real good routes in the range you mentioned all through there, some bolted, some take pro.

 

Zebra-Zion is the very best (and clean too despite what I say in a moment) in that area IMO but I like long moderate trad and it's like 4 pitches of 5.9-10a with the last pitch maybe being one of the best anywhere at Smith at a well protected 5.8. I won't do it anymore if there are folks down below (most of the time) altough the loose stuff should be plenty gone by now. (long story) Others git on it all the time with climbers below and I haven't heard of anyone below being killed or hurt yet, and people do wear helmets generally.

 

To my credit, we got on the route and nobody was there, and someone wandered up after we were like 2 or 3 pitches up.

 

I cn't spell for crap.

 

Have fun!

[turn_one]

thanks for the recommendations, hope it's sunny cuz this rain up here's gettin me down.

my pet-sitting girlfriend is going away for the holiday week leaving me w/ the muttley, looks like i should find a replacement...pet sitter.

[rbw1966]

I'll add to what hemp said wrt dogs: the rangers there WILL fine you if your dog is not leashed. They tend to stick around the main areas so if you want to avoid the stink eye head over to the marsupials. The mud pile has lots of fun stuff too.

 

Zebra Zion is probably the funnest route out there. Get on it early.

 

Bring warm clothes, its gonna be very cold!

[fgw]

All the routes mentioned above are great. Also, take a look at these

Red Wall Stuff:

Peking (1st pitch splitter, 5.8), Super Slab (5.6), Moscow (5.7).

Main Area Stuff:

New Testament (5.10a crack), Toys in the Attic (5.9 - I think it's a FUN route).

 

Monkey - do the Pioneer Route (best via West Face Variation - nice multipitch).

 

Mesa Verde (west side - coooooold):

Trezlar (10a; do Cosmos for P1).