Lambone Posted August 12, 2002 Posted August 12, 2002 Very cool climb. Our original plan was the big Direct East Butress of SEWS (still on the list), but it turned out that leaving Seattle at 5 didn't quite get us there as early as we hoped. Decided to keep training and go back for it. The Norewset Corner route was our back up plan, and a fun worthy climb. It turned out to be shorter than we has expected, it went in four pitches and four leisurly hours. Here is some usefull beta for anyone whose interested: With a 60 meter rope you can link pitch 1 and 2, up to the ledge under pitch 3 (the cool flake pitch). You can also link pitch 4 and 5, its a full rope stretcher, nice pitch! We had a fat rack, doubles on pretty much everything...too much. Go with one of each on small cams up to #2 camolot. Then double up on #2,3,3.5...one #4 should suffice, but you could do without it. Big hexes would be usefull, and the whole thing eats up nuts. There are four rap stations in the gully, no problem with one rope. We saw four other cc.comers up there and spent a couple hours hangin out on the summit. What a great day! Have fun! Quote
sketchfest Posted August 12, 2002 Posted August 12, 2002 Lam, What is the grade for this climb and what's the best way to get there? Quote
Lambone Posted August 12, 2002 Author Posted August 12, 2002 sketch, It's solid, if not a bit scary 5.9. The cruxes are mostly lie backing wide flakes and cracks in the corner. Good foot holds make it reasonabe. Park at Blue Lake and use the same approach trail as Becky route on Lib Bell, go right at the fork in the climbers trail towards the early winter spires. Head all the way up to the base of SEWS and traverse back along NEWS's base on a established trail. The trail that goes straight up to NEWS is heavily eroded. The rock is mostly really good, go do it! [ 08-12-2002, 01:51 PM: Message edited by: Lambone ] Quote
erik Posted August 12, 2002 Posted August 12, 2002 sketch, have done this one a couple times....awesome route with decent rock.... the difficulties are not sustained....you can jam the crux ow very easily........the last .9 moves on the 5th(?) pitch does not exist..... the pitches are very short, i think maybe 100ft..i think last time we were up there we polished off that one and w face in like 4 or 5 hours total.... i would not bring more then a set of camalots to #4. have fun and be safe. [ 08-13-2002, 08:57 AM: Message edited by: erik ] Quote
erik Posted August 12, 2002 Posted August 12, 2002 [ 08-13-2002, 08:58 AM: Message edited by: erik ] Quote
Lambone Posted August 12, 2002 Author Posted August 12, 2002 Ask my partner if he was scared...? And he is a solid 5.9 crack climber. It's all realative. Why grovel up an off width in a corner when you an lie back righ up it with good feet? But your right, the cruxes aren't sustained. Not like a 5.9 like Godzilla anyway. It's kinda slabby up there. Quote
sayjay Posted August 12, 2002 Posted August 12, 2002 Hey 'bone, what day were you up there? We did SW Buttress of the South Spire yesterday and saw a couple of parties summit NEWS. Probably you? SW Butt was really fun. It had one of the sketchiest, scarriest, most rope-draggin runout 5.6s I've ever done, and next time I'll be sure to have something large than a #3 camalot with me so I could actually protect the bear-hug cracks... but what a blast. Great moderate route with some classic crack climbing and easy route-finding. For anyone interested, Beckey's description is right on. Can't beat the views from up there, and man-o-man is the rock great. Sounds like next time we'll have to go for the NEWS...it's definitly on the list. Thanks for the beta! Quote
Greg_W Posted August 12, 2002 Posted August 12, 2002 Lambone (aka gymrat), I want to know how you can climb any of that without tape showing which holds are in. Actually, thanks for the beta; that will probably go on my list. Greg W Quote
sketchfest Posted August 12, 2002 Posted August 12, 2002 Sounds like a sweet little climb with fairly short approach. BTW, 'bone who did you use for your weather report? I want to make sure I don't use the same because I don't have two women to climb with or an I-tent. Quote
Lambone Posted August 12, 2002 Author Posted August 12, 2002 quote: Originally posted by sketchfest: Sounds like a sweet little climb with fairly short approach. Unfortunately the climb seems to go shorter than the approach, but its worth the hike. we should have done another route as well, but lounged in the sun instead. Quote
Lambone Posted August 12, 2002 Author Posted August 12, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Greg W: Lambone (aka gymrat), I want to know how you can climb any of that without tape showing which holds are in. Actually, thanks for the beta; that will probably go on my list. Greg W Luckily a party the day before had left chalk on the holds... Quote
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