North Ridge of Forbidden question

[mvs]

I noticed that in Selected Climbs, a variation where you drop onto the Forbidden Glacier then climb snow back to the ridge is advertised as the route. But the CAG describes going right up the ridge once you gain it from the Boston Glacier.

 

Which way is more fun? I'm not inclined to lose the elevation (a single rope rap is mentioned) just to climb back up. But if it avoids some kind of unpleasant crumbly section of the ridge I'm all for it.

 

Thanks!

[Dru]

Does the CAG say anything about an obvious gully to start the ridge??

[bobinc]

I've only done the NW FAce of the N Ridge, which does require the rappel onto the Forbidden Glacier. My impression on the regular route is that the rappel is not required. I seem to recall some amt of confusion in the guide on this issue, as though the route descriptions for both routes were muddled together. Juan, what do you think?

[Owen]

MVS I climbed the North Ridge last week. I had CAG and Select route descriptions with me. When we gained the notch at the base of the north ridge we had to really question which way to go. We could easily see the north face snow field with a fifty foot square blue ice shield at about mid height and it looked very steep. This position is also where you begin Beckeys route. I would rather be on rock than bad snow any day, but Freds way looked long slow and convoluted to me so we opted for the north face snow. The first 400' was 4" of moderately consolidated snow over rock hard water ice. The upper 400-500' was full snow coverage though steep and soft. I feel we made the best choice at the time, but if that ice shield was any larger I would have taken Beckeys way. Good luck

[Ben]

Think of them as two separate routes.

 

The complete N ridge: For some reason people moan about bad rock on the lower N ridge. In my memory, it's not that bad, and the climbing is really easy at that part. It's a beautiful line and a great climb.

 

The NW face of the N ridge: If you are setting out to do this, it's better to use the lower crossing to the Forbidden glacier (as described in CAG). This is a walk-over (rather than a rotten rappel at the higher crossing). When we were over there (a month ago), the NW face of N ridge looked beautiful, but snow/ice conditions will surely be different now.

[chucK]

I climbed the lower N Ridge. I echo the sentiment that I don't remember it being crumbly.

[mvs]

Thanks very much guys! That is some excellent info to aid in my foggy decision-making process. I'll write on return...

[Guest]

I climbed the snow field on the N face to gain the upper N ridge a month ago and it was excellent. Good snow, straight forward, like a smaller N face of Buckner. I had attempted the Lower N ridge a few years back and pulled a block off the cut the rope, I found it was pretty loose. I suggest if you can get on the N face snow patch in mid season with good snow you won't be disappointed.

[Guest]

Here is to all beta Go climb it and stop snivelling about which one is better. It's been in summer condition to climb for months now.

[mvs]

Again, great advice all. Going tomorrow...

[Juan]

What Owen said. Great route.

[mvs]

danielpatricksmith and I climbed the ridge in a long day yesterday. We followed the entire ridge, rather than dropping onto the Forbidden Glacier and climbing back up on snow and ice. This ridge is long! 0.7 mile of rock climbing, with three snowridges that roughly divide it into thirds. The last snowridge is where the variation climbs up from the glacier. We descended the West Ridge, running into "a few problems" with rappels in the couloir. We also lost the trail up into the basin in pre-dawn darkness due to the avalanche debries. We bashed straight up to slabs under Sahale Peak.

 

We elected to follow a snow finger (40 degrees) up and right from Sharkfin Col that led to a rap station to the Boston Glacier. A single rope rappel worked fine at this variation (several information sources mentioned a double rope rappel from the Col).

 

We felt the rock was very solid on the lower ridge. There was at least one unavoidable 5.6 pitch and a lot of enjoyable scrambling on solid rock.

 

The east ledges descent from the mountain looked scary from our vantage point! (foreshortening?)

 

It was a really fun day. Thanks again for the info

[Juan]

Good job guys. Long day.

 

John

[wayne]

Nelly I remmember and loved your show!

Formidable "complete,complete is approacherd by the Middle fork of course,but you cross the entry creek early and climb the forested lower ridge. Long grunt for sure,and be careful going down,as it is easy to get cliffed if you dont stay on the ridge.eventually youcome to a sub peak that you cross on the west and you can get a great bivvy on the col. The ridge starts steep and is 5.6 at least if you stay on the ridge. It is easier on the left.Several more steps and youll get to the original rt.It was interesting to not see any slings or fixed gear the whole way and what an adventure free solo!

[mvs]

<nevermind, I figured it out>

 

[ 08-14-2002, 03:33 PM: Message edited by: mvs ]