Owen

MVS I climbed the North Ridge last week. I had CAG and Select route descriptions with me. When we gained the notch at the base of the north ridge we had to really question which way to go. We could easily see the north face snow field with a fifty foot square blue ice shield at about mid height and it looked very steep. This position is also where you begin Beckeys route. I would rather be on rock than bad snow any day, but Freds way looked long slow and convoluted to me so we opted for the north face snow. The first 400' was 4" of moderately consolidated snow over rock hard water ice. The upper 400-500' was full snow coverage though steep and soft. I feel we made the best choice at the time, but if that ice shield was any larger I would have taken Beckeys way. Good luck

Thankyou all for the clean Beta, it will help dispell the angst during the six hour drive.

Has anyone seen the Boston Glacier conditions in the last few days. Is it possible to rap with one rope from Sharkfin Col as per N. Ridge route? Thankyou for feed back.