Buckner N Face?

[aws]

Any beta on recent conditions on Buckner? We'll be headed that way in a week. Is the snow holding up? If not, hows the ice underneath, or is it mostly rock when it melts out?

 

Any preferences regarding approach? considering going up and over Boston-Sahale Col, but wondering if its easier to get permits to camp on Sahale arm, Boston Glacier, rather than in the basin?

 

How has the permitting scene been going this year up there? We'll be going on a monday through wednesday. Taking time to sniff the flowers.

 

Thanks,

 

aws

[Alpine_Tom]

Was up on Sharkfin yesterday, and it looked pretty tough. Both the N. Face ® and N. Couloir (l) routes had gaping bergschrunds below them, and the N. Face route (which we could see better) had several gaping cracks on the way up. You could probably navigate up around to the left, but I certainly wouldn't make any recommendations for next week. There looked to be lots of rockfall on the face as well.

I'd been planning on doing Buckner this weekend, so I was pretty interested in looking it over.

 

I don't know about permits; I meant to ask at the ranger station about permits on Sahale Arm but didn't. The Boston Basin trail is shorter, and much more pleasant, I think. We only saw one tent pitched, (but it was a Thursday.)

 

in the "who maintains Boston basin trail" thread, a N. Cascades ranger posted, in part:

 

I'm not sure what all the fuss is about though regarding the permits. For the vast number of excellent climbing days we've had this season, there were Boston Basin permits available. They are available the day of, and one day prior to the start of your trip, first-come, first-serve. After hours in Marblemount, they are available by self-issue outside the station. Saturday nights and some Friday nights are indeed tough if you don't arrive early.

 

[ 08-02-2002, 11:46 AM: Message edited by: Alpine Tom ]

[David_Parker]

I would think with this years snow pack you will have no problems! Did it last year in late July with no problems with much less snow. Beware of anyone giving beta from just "looking at it" from Forbidden or sharkfin. The angle of that point of view can be deceptive and misleading. Go for N. Face couloir. You'll get past the schrund even if it looks "gaping" from afar. PM me if you want more beta. All you need is a permit, no charge. We approached via Sahale Arm first day and base camped at Sahale glacier base. Climbed over Sahale, across face of Boston Peak, across Boston Glacier, up N face couloir, down other side, across base of Davenport, back up to Sahale camp packed up and out on 2nd day.

[savaiusini]

pics from 2 weeks ago: Mt. Jacky Buckner

 

No ice...it was a slog

[Cpt.Caveman]

[aws]

Nice shot. When was this taken. And from where? B-Sahale Col?

 

thanks

 

Andrew

[Cpt.Caveman]

From sharkfin tower I think. 4 weeks ago or less.

[Cpt.Caveman]

another clearer one from forbidden ER and about a week older than the last

-

[Alpine_Tom]

quote:

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Originally posted by aws:

Any beta on recent conditions on Buckner? We'll be headed that way in a week.aws

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Did you go? What were the conditions like? I'm looking at a possible outing this weekend.

[TimL]

Alpine Tom,

 

I glanced over at Buckner N. Face on Tuesday while on Sharkfin Tower and it pretty much looks the same as Caveman's picture except with bigger bergschrunds and it looked to have some ice near the top. Also a little more rockfall on the route but thats to be expected. The bergschunds might make getting on the route a bit more interesting but I'm sure with a little creativity you won't have a problem.