Soloing with a reverso

[JoshK]

Anybody done top-rope soloing with a reverso using its auto lock feature? I have tested it out in a safe environment and everything looks mechanically sound but I would be interested to hear if somebody has real world experience with the setup.

 

thanks,

-josh

[ashw_justin]

There is too much friction, and pulling the rope through sucks. Best to get a self-feeding setup. Even a prussik and a pulley can serve for self-feeding solo toprope, as long as you mind the obvious risks.

[northwest_dad]

Yikes! A Grigri would work a little easier and be a little safer, you know, as safe as you can be while doing something that dangerous. I've seen it done very efficently, but I don't recomend it because a Grigri or any self belay system can't haul you back to the car after a stray rock hits you on the head. But good luck anyway!

[John Frieh]

Petzl handleless ascender.

[Alpinfox]

 

I've tried using the reverso for solo TRing and I thought it sucked. Very difficult to pull rope through with one hand. I think the ascender feature of the reverso is so cumbersome as to make it an emergency only type utility.

 

I borrowed a Yates Rocker from Billygoat recently and that thing is the bidniz for solo TRing.

 

[JoshK]

Thanks for the input guys. The friction was just what I was concerned with. Enough yanking and pulling and testing had convinced me it was safe but I had no idea how (un)pleasent actually climbing with it would be.

 

I'm heading to my local shop tomorrow to check out the various options y'all have suggested.

 

thanks!

-josh

[chris]

Hey Josh - I've been using a Petzl Mini Traxion - only requires a little bit weight at the end of the rope, and the device travels real smoothly. I strongly recommend it. Feel free to PM me with any questions.

[AFIVE]

Wren Silent partner, Yates Rocker, Wren Soloist, Petzl Mini Traxion, Petzl Pro Traxion, Petzl Basic, Petzl Shunt, Petzl GriGri, Wild Country Ropeman are all devices that would work fine for that purpose. Some are going to be safer than others, while some will be way easier to free climb with than others. You can always use a locking biner on your belay loop and clip a clove hitch to it for your belay. This works better for leading while aid cllimbing, but will work for TR'ing as well. Make sure you back up the clove hitch if you go the low budget direction!

[Alpinfox]

 

I would be nervous about falling on a either of the traxion locking pulleys because the cams on those have teeth which could tear the rope sheath. The Silent Partner, soloist, and Rocker have smooth cams.

[chris]

I would be nervous about falling on a either of the traxion locking pulleys because the cams on those have teeth which could tear the rope sheath. The Silent Partner, soloist, and Rocker have smooth cams.

Yeah, I was a bit worried at first too - until I watched someone else take a fall. Last weekend, I used it on several climbs and took repeated, unexpected, falls. Because it's clipped directly to my belay loop, I'm only dropping 3-6 inches.

I also use a static line when climbing in this fashion - more to save the wear on my lead lines. I know that AMGA rock instructors use this technique as well - and on lead lines, without any incidences.

But that's just my opinion...