Black Peak

[Cpt.Caveman]

How is the easiest route?

[plexus]

The prefered route is the NE ridge, 150 feet of loose down below but real nice climbing above. Route is snow free but the snowpatch leading up to the ridge is more like 45 degrees than the 30 degrees that is written, with a nasty collision of rocks eminent if you slide. Can be down car to car but more enjoyable as overnighter, then you can through in Corteo Peak on your first day on the south route (class 3 exposed) and then do Black Peak the next day.

Enjoy.

[dberdinka]

Once melted out, the easiest route is a sloppy scree pile. NE ridge is lots of fun, Plexus has description spot on.

 

Reminds me of slightly humorous insight....

 

What is a mountaineer?

 

Someone who climbs the descent routes.

[plexus]

Hahaha.

 

Actually you forgot to capitalize the 'M' on Mountaineer!

[klenke]

In my honored opinion, the easiest way up Black Peak has got to be via the saddle west of Wing Lake. From there you simply turn right (north) and then angle up to the summit using a gully here and a gully there. Nothing to it. There was scree, but what do you expect for the "easiest route"? The summit blocks have an exposed step-across, but otherwise offer no problems.

 

As I recall, it took me 4 hours and 15 minutes to get to the summit from the car, so car-to-car in a day is quite feasible. And heh, if my skinny ass can do it, anybody's can.

 

===Klenke

[TimL]

Easiest route is the south ridge I would say. I think there is maybe about 15 feet of 4th class below the summit. A lot of choss but cool position with great views of Goode. Its an easy day hike and taking gear up to go overnight seems almost a waste of energy. Although I will say the area is very pretty.

 

[ 07-17-2002, 09:51 AM: Message edited by: TimL ]

[Cpt.Caveman]

thanks guys. How many pitons on original?

[klenke]

Since I've never met you nor climbed with you, Capt. of the Cavemen, I can't say how fast you are, but, like TimL says, a reasonably well-paced climber can do it car-to-car in a day. I myself car-camped at Rainy Pass to get an early start (saving me a 3+ hour drive in the wee hours of the morning).

 

TimL is also right about the views. A stupendous view of Mt. Goode's NE side is visible from the saddle west of Wing Lake (you can also see it from the summit but the perspective is too high up to be as good as the saddle).

 

Mind you, looking the other way, Black Peak looks cool from the NE side of Goode as well.

[Cpt.Caveman]

I have been good views of Black peak from other peaks. Must check it out. Cavemen unite!

[tread_tramp]

A few years back I did the East Buttress route as a big M mountaineer. I understand that it is a little more challenging than the NE ridge. The worst part was the chossy rock. It was little more than a scramble though. I think that I only placed a piece or two on the whole route. Don't even consider the walk up route for the ascent. You would find it quite boring. I understand though that if you catch it right, it's a great route to glissade down.