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Spider, Formidable


Rod_Xuereb

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I climbed the Kloke route on the N. Face and descended the S. side in October a few years ago. There was a dirty and somewhat scary 5.5 pitch at the bottom of the couloir, and a little bit of ice on the route but mostly firm snow. The descent down the south side was borderline frightening -- at least it wasn't steep, but the "rock" on that side of the mountain is about as bad as anything in the Canadian Rockies so that, for the entire downclimb, we had the feeling that a slip was not altogether unlikely and that if one was not able to "self arrest" very quickly, it might be curtains! The October colors made it a very beautiful place to be, but both the north and south sides are probably easier earlier in the year -- and now would probably be a good time, even if there is a cornice at the top.

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