Ingalls S. Face

[AlpineClimber]

I heard rumor that someone took it upon themselves to remove all of the rap/belay slings off of the route not long ago. If true, Thanks alot to whoever thought that was necessary. Good news is that new ones have been added.

 

What's the best selection of pro on the red slab on this route? Are larger cams and hexes (3"+) best for this section?

[Gary_Yngve]

If I remember correctly, the route eats up medium and large nuts. I don't think there's any need for 3"+ stuff.

 

Why are you so quick to condemn what you know nothing about?

[fenderfour]

I was up there last weekend with a Boealps class. Yes, most of the slings were removed. Yes, we left new ones.

 

A set of nuts and a set of hexes is more than enough for the route.

[chalkball]

I was up there a few weeks ago and can confirm...I had heard you could rap with one rope, so we only took one. Got a pitch and a half up before I realized there was no way to get to the next anchor.

[chalkball]

Actually, let me correct that - we could get to the next anchor just fine, but the rap was not possible with one rope.

[Alasdair]

I got yelled at a couple of years ago for removing all of the webbing off of the two large metolius rap bolts on the middle of the face. THere is no reason for there to be any webbing on this type of anchor. They are designed for rope to thread right through them. The next anchor below that has been a hazard for years, and needed removed. As far as I am concerned the only anchor that needs any webbing on that route is the top one to get you over the edge. Alternatively you could always walk off the back side.

[slothrop]

You can rap with one rope. Even though Ingalls is a popular peak, bringing rappel slings, or being prepared to leave some of the slings you brought for pro, is standard alpine practice.

 

I remember there being bolted belay stations every half-ropelength on the South Face, so setting up rappels with your own gear would be much easier than usual.

[kurthicks]

Thanks Alasdair.

I also removed a bunch of crap from up there on July 4 this summer, including cleaning off the Metolius station.

[AlpineClimber]

Thanks all. Thanks Gary.

[chalkball]

I must have been smoking crack. I looked all over the place for anchors, and could only see a rap station way up above (I already had about 45m of rope out). And I did bring slings to leave for the rap, but didn't see any blocks I would trust.

 

wierd. Will have to try again.

[Nick]

I've rapped the south face with a single rope. There was one rap station (that you only need when rapping on a single rope) way over on the climbers right side of the route, about half way down, that was kind of spooky. It was a wad of slings that were somehow wedged behind a loose rock. When I asked my partner how to go about rapping off this shoddy looking anchor his advice was "don't look at it". Perhaps this is the hazardous anchor that may have been removed (see the ambiguous post by Allasdair above). Has this bad anchor been replaced so that the route can still be rapped with a single 50M rope?

Edited October 3, 2005 by Nick

[larrythellama]

there is no reason to rap this route anyways. i do not know why people like to rappell so much? one should always walk off as it tends to be more safe. i will always clean all webbing off a route that does not need it.

 

the mounties and boealps leaving trash everywhere.

[spicoli11]

the site of a group makes one weary...rock fall down....clowns all around!!!