Matt_Anderson Posted September 19, 2005 Share Posted September 19, 2005 A recent read of the Sky Valley book seems to indicate that no one has actually freed all of narrow arrow overhang? Is that right? I always thought the that the last moves to the anchor throught the shallow left facing corner above a small roof) (the anchors that you traverse to when climbing buried treasure/shirley) went free by one or two guys at .12a or so. The climbing below them is difficult, but definitely easier, so that's the only section that I could see not being free climbed. The way I read sky valley last night, it seems to imply that the moves I described have been freed by themselves, but whoever did it faied to free the moves before? That doesn't make any sense to me. What's the deal? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted September 19, 2005 Share Posted September 19, 2005 I'm pretty sure superdave did it...Darryl???? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigwalling Posted September 19, 2005 Share Posted September 19, 2005 Info here: http://www.stanford.edu/~clint/index/index.htm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt_Anderson Posted September 19, 2005 Author Share Posted September 19, 2005 (edited) Alright, so I got home and took a better look at the guides. Looks like I always had Narrow Arrow Overhang and Narrow Arrrow Direct mixed up. Direct is on the right. So I suppose that I was asking about Narrow Arrow Direct, not Narrow overhang. Soooo . . . Narrow Arrow Direct: The Cummings, Cramer and Smoot guides all seem to say that direct hasn't been freed, apparently the last 5 foot section to the ledge has had people yank on a piece (pin, I suppose, I don't remember much in the way of gear there . . .). Seems odd - it's hard but doesn't seem impossible. Rudy - did you think Moroles did this or overhang?. Narrow Arrow Overhang (on the left) - As long as were talking about it, looks like the guides also agree that the section leading to the roof on this route has not been freed (very shallow, relatively long left facing corner with a tiny little seam in it). Haven't been on it, so I guess it doesn't seem as odd to me. Was this the one you think was freed by Moroles? Edited September 19, 2005 by Matt_Anderson Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigwalling Posted September 19, 2005 Share Posted September 19, 2005 No, I think Mike freed the Direct at like 12b a while ago. I know it has been freed since the guide came out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted September 19, 2005 Share Posted September 19, 2005 i didn't think mike had done it yet...thought he sent the full on stern farmer... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt_Anderson Posted September 20, 2005 Author Share Posted September 20, 2005 Mike who? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sexual_chocolate Posted September 20, 2005 Share Posted September 20, 2005 Hey Matt, I was told Dave freed Narrow Arrow Direct, the one with a couple of bolts before an overhang. 12c is the grade I heard. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted September 20, 2005 Share Posted September 20, 2005 Mike who? \schaeffer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimL Posted September 20, 2005 Share Posted September 20, 2005 I´ve been on both routes your talking about. Stern Farmer full, freed by Mike Shaeffer, I think in the spring of 04, goes at something around 5.12c. The crux comes after the anchors before the roof. The roof is not actually that bad and is very enjoyable. I believe there is another crux higher. I watched Mike working on it. It was a very proud send. I´did the first pitch of Narrow Arrow Direct on TR around that same time. I believe it comes in somewhere around 12c or d. Very beautiful climb with the top part being the crux. The lower part is not that bad, but the top 10 feet is super difficult. Certainly very doable. I´m surprised it resisted attempts for as long as it did. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobbyperu Posted September 29, 2005 Share Posted September 29, 2005 so.... i was climbing on the narrow arrow yesturday, and i was wondering about the grade on the pitch with the what felt like 10+ fingers, to a hard mantel past 2 bolts, continuing past a manky A.D.T. anchor, and into a difficult very shallow chimney section, to an anchor underneath a bolted steep LFC...the line looks like it continues thru a roof above. i'm wondering what pitch this is, NAD, or somethin else...and what would the rating be for the mantel, and shallow chimney section... 11b??? tia for any info Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobbyperu Posted September 29, 2005 Share Posted September 29, 2005 so upon further inspection it seems to me that we were on narrow arrow overhang, and its 11b to the anchors underneath the 12c lfc...fuckin index 11b. tuff stuff, i thought significantly harder than other 11c or d's but what do i know it was a great beautiful climb...very steep, lots of variety of moves, and the stemming and chimneying is outrageous!!! i would like to try the full... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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