Fall Routes North Cascades

[TyClimber]

I am from the Bellingham area and fairly new to alpine climbing. Anyone have recommendations for some good fall routes that don't require too long in the car, ie no more than 3 hours? Ice, mixed, rock, whatever. Thanks!

[TyClimber]

I guess I should clarify a bit more, steep ice would be good and probably nothing harder than about 5.9.

[zloi]

You are close to a ton of great alpine routes: Baker, Shuksan, the Picketts, Triumph, Snowfield Pk area, Eldorado, Slesse, Lib Bell area, etc etc. If you don't have the Beckey guide, get it and you'll be overwhelmed with choices.

[Alex]

Black Peak (see my recent TR) is a good outing.

N F Burgundy (see my recent TR) is also good, a bit longer and more technical.

Eldorado is a classic late season objective with route options, before the first significant storms make the approach a pain.

W Ridge of N Twin sister is the classic Fall midweek after-work ramble.

You might look up "Mythic Wall" a new route near Bellingham, that would be a fine fall objective in the Sisters range, as well.

[curtveld]

As mentioned, there is no shortage of good route choices this time of year. A couple of factors to be aware of: 1. Glaciers are likely to be broken up (Baker!) and involve tricky moats. 2. Alpine rock climbing is funnest when you can feel your fingers – climbs higher than 5,000’ (WA Pass) better damn well be in the sun (would avoid BRRR-gundy N. face), 3. The huckleberries are outstanding this year. That said, a fun alpine rock route would be the W. Buttress of South Early Winters Spire (~III 5.8). Good luck.

[mattp]

Real ice climbs are in short supply in the Cascades, until winter arrives anyway (which may happen as early as another month or so up high), but the North Ridge of Baker offers a good and relatively easy ice climb.

 

At this time of the year, the busted up glacier approach will be quite challenging and may involve some technical climbing in and out of crevasses but I bet never a Fall passes without somebody doing it even though others have declared it "impassable."

[TyClimber]

Thanks for the ideas! I did the W Ridge of North Twin last year and it was super, what is the Mythic Wall? I googled it but couldn't find anything. Good to know about Baker too, I have been salivating over that route but everyone says its unreachable in the fall.

[Blake]

see TR posted by DBerdinka in the N. Cascades forum. Late July/early august.

[EWolfe]

I seriously recommend not falling on ANY of the North Cascades routes.

 

Sincerily,

 

Erik

[curtveld]

N face of Shuksan can be very nice this time of year - short drive, too.