zloi

If you are looking to pick up some good cams on the (relatively) cheap check out my Craigslist posting. Have a few related items to sell/give away.

PM me if you are interested in Glacier Pk via N Sauk or possibly Bonanza

Great trip report and congratulations on notching one of the most sought-after routes in the Cascades. Challenging in so many ways and sounds like you did it with great elan.

I talked to a Darrington ranger on the 4th. The Suiattle R. Rd will (finally!) be under construction this summer before and after its closure point at ~mi12. They will be blasting at certain times on certain weekdays so you need to check back OFTEN to see the latest schedule. However, people wanting to do the traditional Ptarmigan route probably already know (having done their research!) that the road to the Downey Ck TH isn't open to vehicles all the way (I've seen motorcycles, but not sure if they're legal). But heck, coming up from OR, what's a few more miles on the boot soles?

See PM

No doubt--everything's better in hindsight. However, I haven't seen it for sale down here in the States.

I don't know what Scrambles guide you are referring to (my only information was the short paragraph in the Bruce Fairley guide) or what your definition of "remote and seldom climbed" may be--obviously there are many places more remote and less climbed, but for my money it qualifies.

Trip: Dickson Peak - North route Date: 8/1/2012 Trip Report: Soloed Dickson Peak in the S. Chilcotin Range in B.C. A few miles outside Goldbridge on the Carpenter Lk highway to Lillooet you can pick up the Slim Creek Mainline Rd. Drive this past Gun Lake (you can also circle Gun Lake and pick up the road there), keep right at a fork (taking the lower road) and drive a few miles to the Jewel TH/bridge over Gun Creek, which is on the right. This is a decent place to camp with fresh water from Jewel Ck nearby (Gun Ck has a lot of glacial silt). A short distance (<1/2 mi.) beyond a road branches off to the left: the Roxey Ck Rd. You need a high-clearance 4WD vehicle to continue, but beware, the road is overgrown and your paint job is likely to suffer a bit. Also, there is one short section (~10 ft) which is washing away and soon won’t be wide enough for regular vehicles, only ATVs. If you have an ATV, you can drive it all the way to the miners’ cabins (2 creek crossings). My jeep made it up 1.8 mi. to where someone has left the foundation of a cabin, along with a loo and lots of junk littering the area. The road splits here. I set up camp, then hiked the left fork to the top: excellent reconnaissance views of Dickson and surrounding area from the ~6500’ ridge top. The right branch crosses the creek in about 100m.—not a difficult vehicle crossing except the opposite bank is chopped out and would need to be smoothed over in order for a jeep to make it up onto the road again (ATVs can get up ok as is). Road continues ~30-40 min walk uphill—no obstacles—to a second creek crossing. A still intact miner’s cabin stands on the other side, as well as the dilapidated remains/foundations of several other buildings. I hiked the road beyond for about 15 min but it veers away from the route to Dickson, ending at mine sites shortly beyond. The aforementioned road junction camp was about 4750’. The next day I forded the creek and walked the road to the second crossing, but instead of crossing, went straight ahead into the brush on the same side of the creek. The cross-country travel is not difficult, and in about 40 min or so brings you through an area of avalanche-sheared trees into a broad swampy basin (lots of bugs). To get to the south side of the mountain (reportedly easier going) one could follow the Roxey Ck Valley to a big snow basin not much farther beyond. However, from my reconnaissance of the previous day, I could see that two creeks which came down at this point would bring me into a large ampitheater which would lead to Dickson’s upper north slopes. There is some loose gravelly, ball-bearing type walking to get up into this basin, but overall, it’s not bad. The basin (mostly snow when I was there) gently rises at first, but by the time you are on all snow (with some ice patches visible) you can tell the upper part steepens significantly. I brought crampons, which were not essential but reassuring to have for the occasional hard spots, and kicked steps to the top of the snow field (about 50 degrees at that point). A snow finger, getting to >60 degrees, runs farther up almost to the summit. I got off on the rock at 8100’and stayed on it the rest of the way. Rock is granodiorite, loose, blocky, and very easy to dislodge on oneself with disastrous consequences (esp for a solo climber). I proceeded with great care to route-find a way up but at length encountered 5th class obstacles so I moved left onto different terrain facing the obvious false summit. From there, I had to doff my pack (with camera in it) to get up some cracks which led the last 300 vertical feet to the top (9200'+). Someone had carried up a wooden stave which they lodged in a large rock cairn at the summit, but I wasn’t surprised not to find a register. I had been anticipating great views of the Coast Mts, but because of a low cloud cover emanating from the west, those views were disappointing. I could see a big ice field to the NW (the Lillooet field?) and the bases of ranges to the W and NW, but nothing more. I probably would have had clear views had I made the ascent on any of the subsequent days that week, but the good aspect of the overcast weather was that conditions were not overly hot and the sunburn not a big factor. The descent went smoothly, with my legs feeling pretty rubbery after a 12 hour RT. Saw the hind side of a (probably black) bear running away at one point. The few pix I have are not great but will post them at some point. Dickson is hidden from any nearby vantage points, so consequently, nothing of Gun Lk or Goldbridge or Downton Lk is visible. Overall, by judicious route-finding one can avoid the need to bring a rope, though there is considerable exposure at times. Not an unforgettable climb, but a reasonably exciting visit to a remote, seldom-climbed peak.

Hey NorthCascader, Welcome back, The mountains are still calling! I may be up for some trips, depending on what you have in mind. Why don't you send me a PM (I don't monitor the forums very often) and we can see if there's a match? -zloi

Hey Folks, Looking to do a spring overnight in the central Cascades. Two possibilities: Merchant Pk (this is one-day but may need TH overnight) or Mt. Stickney via Olney Pass approach. You'll want to have a bit of climbing experience for these objectives in snowy conditions. Not exactly hard, but not for novices either. Or maybe you have a good suggestion..? Fuhrer Finger on Rainier would work, for example (esp with a party of 3)... Am open to various suggestions.

FYI: There's a mountain out here called Bonanza, so the title of your post is a bit ill-chosen (since you don't mention wanting to climb Bonanza)

I have a long week off and am looking for a partner(s) for an extended alpine traverse or exploratory route. Some ideas I have in mind: Mystery Ridge traverse Despair-Mt. Blum (N. Cascades, Beckey vol 3); Bear-Mt-Redoubt-Spickard (N. Cascades, Beckey vol 3); some routes in southern BC: Dickson Range; Monmouth Mt area; Purcell Mts. Also would consider doing the reg route on Bonanza, if it's still viable then, OR some suggestion of your own (NB: I'm not interested in the Ptarmigan or Bailey Range traverses). While these routes are only mildly technical, they do presume some familiarity with glaciers & rope management, at least 4th class rock, remote travel, etc. If you are interested but need more route information, I can certainly provide that. I have a lot of alpine experience, and am still reasonably fast and fit for a guy in his mid-50s.

Hey, jolly good show, and solo no less (well, almost)! We did this route in reverse last October. I can well imagine it would be beautiful under snow (and yes, probably easier in places, as long as it's not too soft). And yes, it's one way to beat the crowds (we had lots of people on the trail sections). Maybe not so good for fishing (though we didn't catch anything in Oct either).

I might be interested in Shuksan if you are considering either the North Face or Price Glacier routes (or Nooksack). Also would do Bonanza--the highest non-volcanic peak in Wa. All these routes would be 3-dayers. You can PM me if interested.

I'll throw my hat in the ring. I've been climbing since '88; getting a little long in the tooth but still fit enough for most outings. Of the volcanoes, I think only Cooper Spur on Hood or the Tahoma or Fuhrer Finger routes on Rainier would interest me. I can usually get off for a 3-day weekend with a little advance notice. I agree with above comments: a day hike is the best way to start. PM me if interested. -Tom

Hey all, I'm taking a 3-day weekend hoping that conditions will be decent for at least 1-2 days. I'd like to do something moderately technical/physical & am open to your suggestions. One dayers (maybe with car camp preceding night): Bessemer Mt, Hall or Morning Star Pks (if we can drive close enuf), Lane/Zipper, other? Overnighters: Baker N. Face, Rainier Fuhrer Finger, many other less committing possibilites... If you have other suggestions, run them by me, I could be game!

When you say "interested in hiking to these summits" do you mean, taking the easiest route (and in best conditions), in order to bag the peak? Your answer may influence the replies you get.

I've been washed out every weekend this year so far, but I've got 4 days off 2/19-22, so surely at least a couple days will look promising for climbing. I'm so anxious to get out to do something, I'm no longer too particular. PM me if you have a route suggestion or if you are up for something like the following: Shuksan/N.Face; Rainier/Fuhrer Finger; Merchant Pk; Hall Pk; Lane Pk; Mt Fernow (off Hwy 2). I would consider these all "overnighters" to the extent that I'd want to be close to the TH on the climb morning (I live in Burien, a hefty drive to anywhere). Have winter vehicle ready for challenge...

Hi All, Looking for eager beavers with some mountaineering experience wanting to tackle Rainier in winter. I've done Gib Ledges, so I'm looking at Fuhrer Finger, but the Zipper Route on nearby Lane Pk would be a fine alternative, too. The MLK weekend would be a good opportunity, but I'm open to trying the weekend before or any of the next several after depending on conditions. Shoot me a PM if you're interested. -Tom

Hi, I'm looking for partner(s) for a N. Cascades loop trip to knock off some grudge peaks on my list. Projected route: trail entry from the north, climbing Bear first (easiest way--class 4), then traversing to Redoubt (easiest way--class 4), then over to Spickard (choice of routes, max. class 4), then back out via a good trail. Though these aren't technically difficult routes, am looking for somebody with climbing experience (we'll be taking a rope with light gear + glacier travel)--and back-country travel ability (there's a good bit of walking over trail-less terrain). This is a beautiful, particularly wild part of the Cascades, just the thing for anybody with a love of the outback. I'm trying to get Sept 15 off as well, for flexibility. If you are free in this time period but have some different objectives, let me know--I'm not absolutely wedded to this idea! (I wouldn't mind doing Formidable-Spider, for example, or maybe Goode). Cheers to all! -Tom

Hey folks, I've got vacation time from 7/24-8/3 and am looking for a partner(s) for a high-alpine traverse. I've got in mind trying to knock off some N. Cascades classics--Bear Mt, Redoubt and Spickard, although I am open to other options (such as Despair-Mystery Ridge & Mt Blum/Hagen or Bailey Range in the Olympics--though NOT Ptarmigan Traverse. The aforementioned traverses should take 5-6 days, & I am flexible within the time-period indicated. I am an experienced climber in decent shape--and you should be, too. Let me hear any and all willing! I could be open to other ideas, too...

Trip: Colonial Creek Basin - Snowfield Peak, Neve Glacier Date: 9/11/2009 Trip Report: [font:Arial]Hadn't gotten out into the N. Cascades yet this year, so with a perfect weather forecast and a little time on my hands, there was no excuse not to make the long drive up there from S. Seattle. Since I was just winging this mid-week trip, subject to the vagaries of weather and work, I didn't bother trying to line up a partner. I had the initial notion of climbing Elephant Butte, a "safe" sounding destination for a solo venture, but the prospect of a long, hot, dry hike without an adrenaline fix left me disdainful. The Colonial Basin area, on the other hand, was a conspicuous blank spot in my appreciation of the Cascades, one which opportunity had, for one reason or another, not allowed me to rectify over the years. Suddenly, in a burst of bold exuberance ill-fitting a man of my incipient decrepitude, I added crampons and ice ax to my pack, the appropriate maps, route descriptions, etc. and stoutly resolved to show Snowfield Peak at least a minor skirmish, if not outright battle. The drive up was punctuated by showers, heavy at times. After a soggy car-camp near the Pyramid Lake TH, I awoke next day to sunshine and warmth, as confidently promised by our meteorological mavens. The first order of business was to stow some gear in the woods. SR 20 is lush temptation for car prowlers--I got rudely broken into a few years back at a nearby TH (tailgate glass smashed out), so my goal was to leave the car as empty as possible and hope for the best. That accomplished, I got a prompt alpine start on the trail sometime, oh, after noon. I was actually hoping the sun by then might succeed in drying out the trail somewhat, but this proved vainly optimistic and I got well sodden on the hike in. The trail to Pyramid Lake is a pleasant warm-up for the climbers' trail above. This trail was easy to find, and mostly easy to follow, provided you are in a mood to go straight up. (Folks who put in climbers' trails don't bother with switchbacks, either ignorant of their invention, or else considering them "pansy".) For an unmaintained trail, I found it in jovial enough shape, with minimal blowdown and overgrowth, although unlikely ever to make Backpacker magazine's A-list. Pyramid Lake is a shallow, logged-choked eyesore, and there is no spot flat enough to catch your breath until you reach 4200’. A curious thing happens shortly after that: another trail mysteriously branches off downhill. I note this because on the way back one could mistakenly deviate onto this rogue trail, which leads to god knows where (there’s nowhere to go). You next pass some fetid looking pools, thrash through woods, and do several more acrobatic hiking stunts before tromping through field after field of irresistable wild blueberries (at their snacking peak, which slowed me down considerably). Eventually heather-covered slabs are reached at ~5400’ (no water). At this point, Pyramid Pk is in your face, and Colonial Ck becomes visible as it begins its long plummet down to Diablo Lk. Drop down a couple hundred feet and traverse a field, then talus slopes for another hour to reach Colonial Ck a short distance from its source at the nadir of Colonial Basin (~6000’). What I encountered was a small lake. By Labor Day, glacier- and snow-melt have conspired to render the foot of Colonial Gl a liquid mass roughly the color of a climber’s bath-water after a three-week expedition. I claimed one of the pre-stamped out, sandy camp spots at water’s edge (there were two more beyond, besides some bivy sites earlier near the Colonial Ck waterfall, apparently set up under snow cover). While there were old tracks here and farther on, I had the place to myself the entire time. I was setting up my tent about 6 o’clock after a 5-hr hike in. Wholesome drinking water was abundant from snow-melt streams off the nearby walls of Pyramid Pk. As the lake afforded no easy access to the glacier, it had to be circumnavigated via a sinewy bulge of rock slabs across Colonial Ck's roaring outlet. Fortunately, the creek crossing was facilitated by a significant drop in the stream flow the next morning. The slabs proved an easy enough nuisance, leading down to grungy, silt-covered ice at the lake’s far end and from there the start of the glacier proper. Reaching the Colonial-Neve col was the next task. The glacier was impassable to a direct line, so I had to steer off to the (climber’s) left and gain a rock gully via a slightly questionable detached droop of ice. I climbed rock past the crevasse obstacles, regained the glacier higher, and had no further problems getting over the col (6840’). From my first view of the Neve Gl on the other side, I could see my ascension was really going to amount to mostly a matter of good luck, although at first it seemed less broken up than I had feared. (In fact, it proved to be more so.) In morning light, the left-hand side seemed to promise fewer hidden crevasses, so I tried that. Well, so much for my "intuition.". It was a pretty wild maze, necessitating a lot of end-running and zig-zagging, poking and scrutinizing of the snow, ever aware that a mistake might prove disastrous. Unfortunately, even taking great care, it is still possible to cross a manky snow-bridge without being aware of it until you see it from a different angle (ie, looking back after you've crossed it). Anyway, suffice it to say I made it through the worst of the crevasses to where the glacier flattens out and thence to the W. Ridge rock. It is an easy hike up from there to near the top (~8200'). Someone has left some cairns leading to the north side across a shallow gully. From there, it is an easy scramble up to a notch. A short ledge or two traverses into another gully and then to the summit. Views from the top were stunning. Snowfield is beautifully situated between the N.and S. lobes of the park, so a great panorama spreads in all directions. No summit register--just a USGS marker from 1962. Beckey mentions another final summit route, so in the interest of diversity, I followed his description down. It involved descending the summit gully past the ledges down into a larger, looser gully which cleaves and twists its way down the south side. I descended it a short distance, then climbed up its other side to regain the west ridge that I'd come up, and from there back down to the glacier. No preference to either route. While on the summit, I used binoculars to scout a route down the middle of the glacier. It looked easier than what I'd come up, but uncertain what I would find once actually committed to it, I decided it was less risky to simply retrace my ascent route down. However, it wasn't that simple. Because the surface was mostly ice, I often could not locate my tracks or recognize which way I'd come. That and, in the sun-softened conditions, detouring around a couple snow-bridges which, I mightn't shouldn't've crossed coming up, caused the descent through the steep part to take fully as long as it had to climb up. Finally down on safe terrain, I looked back up at what I had snaked through, noted a line of seracs towering above my route, and gave silent thanks to the deities of the outback that nothing went awry. Once again whistling to the glory of a sunny, late-summer's afternoon in the mountains, I half-waltzed back up to the col, studied the glacier again, and would fain advise other parties to go the middle route. Then I peered across at Pyramid, Pinnacle, and the "Stump" on the other side of Colonial Gl. I had thought I might attempt one of them on the way back (Pyramid looking to be nothing more than a walk up). Overly optimistic as usual! Fatigue and the slanting sun dictated a humble return to camp, which I scuttled into 11 hours after leaving. To sum up this route in late season, I'd say it is an advantage (especially to a solo traveler) that the crevasses are mostly open because they are visible; of course, it's sometimes a disadvantage because they have opened up too generously. The glacier surface was mostly great for cramponing. The approach wasn't muddy, I saw a total of 2 mosquitoes and no flies, and had I thought to pack a hard container, could have returned with a bounty of intact blueberries. There were also scads of shrooms, although I saw no choice ones. I'm not a fan of cell-phones, so I can't say if one would have worked from up there. Lastly, yes, the car was intact (and started) when I got back! PS: I have some decent photos--maybe someday I'll figure out this site's protocol as to how to add them. [/font] Gear Notes: ice ax & crampons

I have a fair amount of tech experience but am not really interested in either of those traverses. -tom

What do you mean by "floatation"? Inner tubes, life ring?? You don't even mention the avalanche section or the brush. Could the snow still have been that deep?

Hi, I am interested in doing a trip of several days (5-6) and have vacation in the last week of June and also late July-early August. I've been looking at a couple alpine traverses in the N. Cascades (Bath Lakes high route near Glacier Pk or Mt Triumph to Mt Blum). These are lightly technical. I could also be up for climbing Bonanza and maybe doing something else in that area. If you have any ideas/ambitions, am flexible and willing to consider. Respond here or PM me. Thanx! -Tom