catbirdseat Posted September 6, 2005 Share Posted September 6, 2005 This route at the center section of Middle East Wall is so popular that bushes are growing out the base and cobwebs adorn the face. It's a nice route, but it is shunned because it lacks a permanent anchor. The "anchor" on the adjacent project is not really an anchor but two bolts vertically separated by about five feet with a ribbon of tat connecting them. They also are not very easy to get to from Crazy Fingers. We ended up pulling the roof and finishing on top and walking off. It's not that bad, but it apparently turns off a lot of people. Sex party gets all the traffic and I think it is just a face climb with a crack to the right of it for protection. Crazy fingers actually has better jams. If you are over that way, I suggest giving Crazy Fingers a go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MCash Posted September 6, 2005 Share Posted September 6, 2005 I agree that it is a quality route, climbed it about a year ago. The route has good finger jambs and is one of the cleaner crack climbs on the wall, as you mentioned. I don't remember any cobwebs or dirt on the route, I thought it was a very good climb. That bush at the base is not really in the way either. When we did it, the 2 project bolts were not even connected. That tat you found was probably ours that we added. I thought the anchor as we left it was adequate. Sure it would be better to have it's own double bolt anchor and chain setup, but we didn't have a drill with us. The traverse over to the top of the fingernail sized seam from Crazy Fingers is pretty straighforward and should not dissuade potential climbers. Bob Loomis leading it last year... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
catbirdseat Posted September 6, 2005 Author Share Posted September 6, 2005 I should add that a hold broke off on the traverse to the project, so it may not be as easy now as it was when you did it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr._Natural Posted September 8, 2005 Share Posted September 8, 2005 Killer tune man! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
catbirdseat Posted September 8, 2005 Author Share Posted September 8, 2005 JY told me that the project had a pair of chains, but that they were stolen by someone who believes everyone should walk off trad climbs on the mesa top. Never mind that this is at odds with the wishes of the land manager. The question remains, will someone send that project on the left? It looks hard. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MCash Posted September 9, 2005 Share Posted September 9, 2005 The crack on the project is fingernail sized. I believe it would be more a series of palming and opposition. Gear would also be extremely interesting. I'll give anyone $100 if they can redpoint it without altering it. No joke. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
catbirdseat Posted September 11, 2005 Author Share Posted September 11, 2005 If it goes, it goes at 5.13+, if I had to guess. I'm not really in a position to judge, but it just looks harder than Red M&Ms. For pro it would be mostly RPs but it has few little pockets here and there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sexual_chocolate Posted September 11, 2005 Share Posted September 11, 2005 Where is this climb exactly? Past the parking lot on the main road.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JensHolsten Posted October 2, 2005 Share Posted October 2, 2005 Hmmm, is the project you speak of the seam directly to the left of the climber in the photo? If so, that is a cool looking line! My question to those who have seen it is how far from other crack systems is the seam. In the picture there appears to be a wider crack just to the left. Is the project an independent and pure line or a desperate eliminate?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sexual_chocolate Posted October 2, 2005 Share Posted October 2, 2005 It seems as though it would necessarily be an eliminate, unfortunately. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
catbirdseat Posted October 2, 2005 Author Share Posted October 2, 2005 What is meant by "desperate eliminate"? I assume that you refer to applying a rule whereby you can't stem off the crack to the left? You'd have to go look at it. The crack to the left of the seam may be farther than it looks in the photo. Look at Lingerie. The same applies to it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drater Posted October 19, 2005 Share Posted October 19, 2005 You can stem into the other crack if you're tall AND flexible, but it doesn't really help you. Getting out of that stem position and moving upward from it was harder than the tips crack. I don't think it's much harder than 12d on TR, FWIW. Leading it is a much different story. "Snickers to the chossroom. Calling Snickers to the chossroom. Thank you." Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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