[TR] Rainier- Kautz 8/24/2005

[zloi]

Climb: Rainier-Kautz

 

Date of Climb: 8/24/2005

 

Trip Report:

My partner Steve and I climbed the Kautz route Aug. 23-26, 2005.

On the advice of the rangers (good advice, as it turns out), we decided to approach via Van Trump park (Comet Falls TH). A low cloud cover kept us in misty wet conditions on the hike in—preferable, really, to hot sun—but the forecast had favorable weather for the next several days, so we proceeded without particular concern. We passed one bivy site at ~7200’ and stayed at the next one, ~7800’ at the edge of the first snow and near a run-off stream (no water below 7200’). We brought only bivy sacks, and with no sun, it was quite chilly at first, but sure enough, by 7 o’clock the clouds broke up and from then on we enjoyed seasonally warm, sunny weather with little wind.

We slept in the next morning in anticipation of a light day. We finally got going a little after 9:30, avoiding most of the scree piles by sticking to the margin of a snowfield (Van Trump Gl.), which proved fairly pleasant to get up. At 9200’ we hit a rock outcrop on the ridge, joining the other approach route (crossing over the Nisqually to the “Fan”). Good bivy or tent sites here.

We were able to stay on snow (the “Turtle” snowfield) until near high camp. The scree we did have to cross was mostly well consolidated, so that overall, the Van Trump approach is not bad, loose-screewise, even though it starts ~1700’ lower than Paradise. There are a number of good bivy sites at ~11,100’. “Camp Hazard” is higher by a few hundred feet. From it, one must descend to the start of the climb. From the lower sites, where we stayed, there is a narrow passage leading a short distance to the foot of the first steep section on the Kautz—very convenient. Unfortunately, with a heavy pack, it is an icy, unpleasant downclimb, but someone (RMI?) had left a fresh rappel rope anchored at the top of a short cliff which made getting down to the glacier much easier. There is no nearby water source for this area, however, so we had to utilize drips from a snowpatch a couple hundred feet up from camp. It took us 5½ hours to reach this high camp.

We didn’t start Day 3, Climb Day, early enough. We rappelled by headlamp and were on the glacier by 5:30-ish, not wanting to climb the technical sections before daylight. We decided to save weight by bringing a 30-meter, 8mm. rope. We belayed the first section, ~40° slope, which took us 2 pitches. The glacier briefly eases back, then steepens again to 50° or more, depending on the line. We climbed this part, I believe, in 4 belayed pitches before we felt comfortable simul-climbing above it. We used a maximum of 4 ice screws (pickets are useless). The seracs and ice formations to either side of this chute are beautiful—I’d say unique on Rainier, probably because of the sun angle. We noticed a number of slings left over from climbers who had evidently rappelled back down the route. This looked unappealing to us, so we decided on a carry-over, descending via Disappointment Cleaver (DC). Somebody had even left two ice screws on a sling, though the ice was plenty dense for V-threads. There are solid-looking nieve penitentes to sling, as well. In fact, the ice was pretty damn nice (and it was all ice for the first 1000’ or so). Lots of dinner-plating, two tools definitely advised, unless you’ve got brass cojones, but little ledges and pockets are frequent for resting/belaying.

We must’ve been slow, because it took us a long time to get onto the upper glacier. We probably should’ve stayed right, as the rangers advised, negotiating crevasses to climb above the top of Wapowety Cleaver. You can’t see the saddle between Point Success and Columbia Crest until you get quite high, crossing below some seracs that separate the Kautz from the upper Nisqually. This is apparently the most usual route—heading for the saddle. However, Steve and I, in our infinite “wisdom,” opted to aim for a snow ramp on the left side of the upper glacier near the rock ridge leading to Point Success. We had several crevasses to skirt, but the crux was finding a bridge across a large, upper crevasse separating us from the expansive snowfield leading up to the ridge from Point Success. There were several, but only one looked solid enough still to venture across. I equalized a picket and an ax to belay Steve (mostly snow at this elevation). Luckily, the bridge held, and we were able to continue without further impediments. Otherwise, we were looking at a long retreat back to the right-side route.

Deep sun-cups on the part above slowed our progress, as did altitude, but eventually we reached the ridge at ~13,800’, dropped down slightly into the saddle, and then went back up to the crater edge. From there, it was a short walk to the summit. But it was after 6 pm when we got there! It was unbelievable to me it could have taken us so long, but there we were, with only 2 hours of daylight left to get down. We were both pretty spent by this time, so Steve suggested (insisted!) we overnight on the summit. With such clear, calm weather, it was hard to object, so, after the obligatory summit photos, we went searching for a couple bivy sites.

Steam vents have gouged out some tunnels underneath crater snow. These looked appealing, but were unsatisfactory because of sloping terrain or thin snow shells. We ended up on bare ground near some vents, just flat and large enough for a sleeping bag. We were low on fuel at this point, but were able to melt some snow for water. Then my stove died. This hardly seemed like a tragedy at the time, since neither of us had much appetite due to the altitude. Luckily, the steam vents came to our aid. We set pots and bottles of chopped snow on them, which they quickly melted to provide us with decent drinking water. The wind, a non-factor to this point, picked up overnight—neither of us slept too well, though not so much because of cold, really. Still, we didn’t feel like dawdling the next morning.

After some dried fruit and a piece of bagel for breakfast at sunrise (always bring some ready-to-eat food!), I was ready to set off just after in search of the DC route, which neither of us had ever done before. There was an obvious track heading out of the crater in the right direction, so we started following it. As we began descending (as per Steve’s GPS), I suddenly balked, because it looked like we were heading too far east, down the Emmons Gl. I didn’t realize how convoluted the DC route is. Just then, the first RMI team of the day appeared, climbing up. I asked the RMI guide if we were, indeed, on the right track for the DC route. Without breaking stride, the guy passed me by with no answer. A few feet later, he said over his shoulder, in a mildly contemptuous tone, “Just follow our tracks.” However, there were 2 intersecting trails at that point, so I asked where the other trail led He ignored me at first, then, still not breaking stride, said about 10’ later, “I can’t hear you.” I shouted to him the question again. He shook his head and appeared to mutter something under his breath, then repeated, “They both lead to the same place.” What a nice man.

Another team was following his, so we took the other, less trafficked trail down. The guide was right—the 2 trails do connect up again. He neglected to mention that the one we took had been abandoned because a key snowbridge had melted out. We putzed around 30-40 minutes getting around the crevasse in question and having to climb back up a couple hundred feet to rejoin the trail the guides were ascending. My fault, I guess, but I suspect the RMI prince knew the other trail was no longer viable—just didn’t care to point it out.

The rest of the descent went without complication. My only comment: the DC route stinks. Winds all over the place, crosses lots of loose volcanic junk, has wands and forks all over—bitch bitch, whine whine. Really, it amounts to, descending 9000’ on tired muscles ain’t much fun. The Muir snowfield was melted back to ice in which crevasses were beginning to emerge. It wasn’t until we reached a dry trail at Pebble Creek (7200’) that I started feeling like our travails were behind us.

Not quite. We still had to hitch a ride back to our car. Luckily, it only took us about 15 minutes before we corralled a couple from Spokane into giving us a ride down in their super-truck. I’ve spent the last 2 days recuperating in Seattle. It was a hell of a climb. I have done The Emmons Gl, Gib Ledges, Central Mowich Face, and Liberty Ridge, but I think this is probably the most challenging route I’ve done yet on Rainier. Of course, a lot depends on the season.

Look for pix at http://mx.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/zloi1/album?.dir=/ddfe&urlhint=actn,ren%3as,1%3af,0

 

 

 

Gear Notes:

Took 6 ice screws, used 4. 2 pickets, used 1 once.

[OlegV]

Geat job and TR! You guys have any pictures

and the route line?

[Alex_Mineev]

Post pictures

On what side of the crater rim did you find those vents?

I bet columbia crest knob is melted out. Did you see any bivy sites there?

On what altitute did you see the rappel gear on Turtle?

Also, that fork on upper DC on the way down where one of the options lead to the crevasse, which option was it - left or right?

[zloi]

I've got some pix but won't be able to post them for 2-3 weeks. I'm off on another trip now.

 

I think there are vents scattered around the crater, but the ones we camped by were near the top of the Emmons route. The summit itself was all snow, but it's bare to either side.

 

The rappel spot is not on the Turtle. As you ascend to 11,000', stick to the left. The rock drops off to the Kautz Gl. on that side. There are good bivy/tent sites cleared from the scree. Just above these you'll find the passage down to the Kautz--downclimb or rappel. No water this time of year at the sites, and no snow very close, either.

 

As you start down the obvious track to the East from the crater (DC route), stay as easterly as possible. It looks like the wrong direction, but this is because the path skirts some huge crevasses lower before trending southward. If you take any forks to the right (more southerly), you'll probably be stopped lower by unbreachable crevasses (this time of year). If in doubt, just ask a friendly RMI guide...

 

BTW, the upper crevasses along or off the route would make spectacular photos in decent weather, in case you have the energy and desire to explore a little.

[thelawgoddess]

nice!

[whidbey]

two thumbs up