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New Oregon Willamette rock climbing guide

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The release of Greg Ortons latest editons of climbing guides is close. The Willamette book will include the Menagerie, Wolf Rock, Flagstone, Hills creek as well as other areas. I provided about 95% of the Menagerie info as well as some for wolf rock, because of that I'm listed as a co-author. I did this with no expectation of finacial gain but was informed by Greg that he would sell me guides at a reduced price for remembursment of my efforts. I'm just testing out the waters to see if it would be worth my trouble to market some books. The book price is 20 bucks for a 244 page guide that I have done my best to insure is accurate for my areas. Was wondering how many folks would be interested in purchasing the book from me instead of perhaps REI or Amazon. P.M. me if you would be so inclined....no obligation but I could get an idea if I wanted to sell some books or not. Jim Anglin

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There has been enough interest that I will sell some guides. I can't comment on how the final guide looks since I haven't seen it. I can tell you that I went to great lengths to insure the information about the Menagerie was as correct has possible. here is a link that describes the guides in detail http://www.climbsworegon.com/GUIDE/climbing_guide.htm

The release date has been moved up to mid October which is good since I have a climbing trips planned up until then. Jim

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Well I can now comment on how the guide looks since I have a case of them in my van. It sucks...but not too bad. lots of errors in my section on the menagerie that I had edited out previously. Greg told me that the publishers hard drive crashed and they had to use a previous edit???

That said there is still a ton of good info and I will type up a correction sheet for my portion that will be sent out with the books from me. there are an embarressing number of photos of me in the book but I had nothing to do with the choices...just gave Greg all my slides to pick from and got punked, sort of. Still on a road trip (tons of great climbing, Yosemite, Red Rocks, Owens River, and next J.T. before heading home next week. I should be home by the 13th and will contact all that expressed interest in the book. Hope to meet up personally for the exchange (maybe a weekend at Smith) with as many as possible (save shipping costs) so I hear winter has arrived up there? It's 101 where I'm hanging out today (good thing since I need some rest days). See you soon. Jim

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I agree, I ordered the Willamette and rogue editions. While info is good, there are many many errors. Very poor quality on the final editors/publishers part. Worth getting though. Also, more route history would be nicer.

Of the several bolted routes at the base of the big arch on Wolf rock serveral are listed as unknown for first ascent. The ones not put up by Jim were established by Brett Hall, who grew up in Sprinfield/Eugene and also in the Rosburg area. I don't know who his partner was, but possiblly Matt Pike was involved who also grew up in the Glide/Roseburg area. It would be nice to someday tie all this together into a comprehensive oregon craging guide some day including central and eastern Oregon, kind of like a revised Dodge tome.

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I agree, I ordered the Willamette and rogue editions. While info is good, there are many many errors. Very poor quality on the final editors/publishers part. Worth getting though. Also, more route history would be nicer.

Of the several bolted routes at the base of the big arch on Wolf rock serveral are listed as unknown for first ascent. The ones not put up by Jim were established by Brett Hall, who grew up in Sprinfield/Eugene and also in the Rosburg area. I don't know who his partner was, but possiblly Matt Pike was involved who also grew up in the Glide/Roseburg area. It would be nice to someday tie all this together into a comprehensive oregon craging guide some day including central and eastern Oregon, kind of like a revised Dodge tome.

 

Thats a great idea, too bad there isn't some old retired geezer out and about with the time on his hands to jump into that kind of project.

 

He'd have to be literate, and have a solid knowledge of various area, and have the time to contact other people so as to get it right. grin.gif

 

Hmmm, I can't think of anybody.

 

anyone? .... anyone?

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I have not done much climbing in any of the area's covered by these new guides. I have been to Wolf Rock once and RattleSnake near the Rouge a dozen of times (my girlfriends parents live down there). I purchased Vol 1 just last week Cuz I think there great. I love the history, and the topo's are really nice. I too noticed a few errors in grammer and have already made changes that I saw listed on line. The guide book that I use mostly is Portland Rock Climbs. From talking with some local old-timers they say there are tons of mistakes in this guide book and I think the topo's are below average. So I just deal and get History from the old-timers whenever I can. Can't wait to get vol 2 and go down to do Old Man. I visited him in the rain this spring and am eager to return. However, the entire base of Old Man, Old Woman is covered in poison-oak. Peace, Stewart

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I'm home. My fingers are so thrased it hurts to type but ignorning pain as usual I will be typing up a list of corrections for the above discussed guidebook...could take awhile;-) If you want a guide NOW! Send me 23 bucks (cash, check or moneyorder) and I'll send the guide out when I recieved the green, with a list of corrections included. If you would like to hook up for the exchange and maybe even lead my sorry butt up some route that could be arranged too. If fast gratification is your style my address is:

Jim Anglin

P.O. Box 1665

White Salmon WA. 98672

509-493-4218.

If meeting some other way seemes preferable call, email or pm me at this site and we'll talk. I'll try and contact everyone who previouly expressed interest but if you want the guide mailed you can jump the gun and just mail the check.

Bill, yes we will have to keep our eyes out for someone meeting that description, maybe talk Joseph into retiring to write guidebooks.

Jim

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Glanced thru. Vol 1 & 3 last night at rei. Books look awsome!

Will send you a pm when I mail out the check Jim.

Thanks!

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