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Posted

I'm looking for a good pair of boots that are fairly solid and can hold crampons well, whether strapon or step in or whatever. But I want something light and good boots that are usable for hiking.

currently i have running shoes, for my light weight hiking and kolflach degrees for my glacier travel. the running shoes are too wussie for heavy pack hiking yet the kolflach's as everyone knows is heavy as a mo-fo. I'm looking for something in between that can be a comfortable approach boot, glacier boot, and general hiking boot.

 

I know that a mix is hard to find that suits both hiking and glacier travel well, but It is worth it to have one.

 

I have been suggested La Sportiva glaciers and I hear good things about montrail. any suggestions? just let me know. and feel free to suggest what not to get. I dont want to kill my heals or toes, etc.

 

thanks for the help

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Posted

I'm currently reviewing a pair of Dunham Waffle Stomper Premiers for another web site. They have so far exceeded my expecations and might be exactly what you're looking for. Like you, I need a comfy hiking boot that can do double duty on light mountaineering.

 

They were the Backpacker magazine 'Best Buy' last year.

 

My initial impressions really quickly... (full review to follow):

 

brutally stiff around the ankles at first although the footbeds are very cushy

 

very sticky soles that grip rock very well even when wet (ie: algae covered rocks in a fast moving river)

 

excellent cushioning

 

excellent ankle support

 

known for their waterproofness (I haven't tested them in a downpour or really soggy conditions yet but I have gone out of my way to step right in the creeks and they have stayed dry)

 

excellent for kicking steps in snow, even when icy. very supportive for the foot when hiking up very steep snow with only your toe in

 

Seem to have more arch support than most boots.

 

very light. I think they weigh about 2.5lbs which is awesome for such a rugged boot.

 

They are taking time to break in but other than that, I'm really happy with them so far. I wore them for 13 hours the weekend before last on very mixed terrain (trail... boulders... scree... snow... glacier) I'm wearing them for 5 days in the Enchantments starting on Friday so if you're not in too big a rush, wait till I get back and I'll have a full review of them.

 

http://www.dunhambootmakers.com/outdoor/product.asp?ref=82

Posted

I have a pair of Montrail Lotus boots. They are light, waterproof and pretty comfortable. It seems that the sizing is a little off on them, as I wear a 11.5 in that boot, but did buy them to fit a thick sock in. Downside to montrails now is that their crampons are recalled. I've used the BD Sabretooth crampons with my boots, and the fit isn't amazing, it works though. The heel of the sole is very rounded, making the posts on the crampon tough to get on. A little action with the pliers will do the job though. There are also two metal peices on the bottom of the boot, these are designed to fit the montrail crampons. They can get a little skittish when you're jumping across scree. You have to be very aware of them there, otherwise you'll land on one and have to regain balance.Plenty comfortable to hike in though.

 

I got these boots because I was having problems with other boots crunching my toes. (scarpa Freney Pro) I wish I waited a few more months though. I really like La Sportiva's Trango series. I would have gone with the extreme, but the EVO S would do the job for you. I think it is even lighter than my montrails too.

 

Go try some boots on, find the boot that doesn't chew up you toes and heels, then you'll be in business. I've bought boots because I thought they were cool (Scarpa Freney Pro) but they didn't fit. The Montrails are cool, but they don't get me excited the same way. But they sure as hell fit a lot better.

 

Alan

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

I just bought a pair of Garmont "Strata" boots at Feathered Friends. These are a cross between approach shoes, hiking boots and alpine climbing boots. I tried them out by climbing Mt. Formidable, so lots of talus and cramponing on icy glaciers as well as steep class three scrambling on rock. These boots are really great. Dry (so far), climb great, lightweight, worked well with crampons, super comfy . . . They fit well with the new Petzl-Charlet light 10 point steel crampons (Sarken, I think). They have a sneaker-like shock absorbing quality but also have a medium stiff vibram sole and hard (sticky rubber) toe and heel caps that make them great with crampons and step kicking. Mine only weigh 3 pounds a pair, which is as light as the La Sportiva wonderboots, but the Garmonts are much more comfortable as well as more compact and more nimble on rock. These boots will only work with strap on crampons. They are a lot lighter than many would use for general alpine travel, but I love them.

Edited by Nick
Posted

Since this thread has been buumped up I thought I'd add to my comments. Those Dunham Waffle Stompers ROCK. I beat the hell out of them for 6 days. I carried a 70lb pack over boulder fields, Aasgard Pass, the steepest nastiest gully from hell (in the dark!), you name it. I wore them for 23 hours straight with the pack at one point in fact. Most comfortable boots I've ever owned. They saved me from many an ankle turn through alder hell. I felt like I had suction cups on my feet on steep slab. I have horrible knees and the arch support in these boots has been a godsend to my knackered knees. They aren't sexy but they sure make my feet happy.

 

woohoo! I'm not a 'stranger' any more!

Posted

Tired and old cliche but still oh so true: the best boot is the one that fits best. Here are some models you might try:

 

LaSportiva Trango EVO

Scarpa Freney Pro (I have a pair of 42.5s I am selling)

LaSportiva K3s if you can find them

Scarpa Eiger / Eiger Assault

The WaffleStompers looks cool, who/where is the local dealer?

 

I am back to my Eigers after I wore out my first pair of Freneys and the Freney Pro (unfortunately) fits a bit differently.

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