TeleRoss Posted August 12, 2005 Author Posted August 12, 2005 We were somewhat close to the SGC. There's the SGC, then some broken terrain, then a little bulge, then a large left facing corner. Left of the corner we climbed the first of three nearly parallel finger cracks leading kind of up and left. The one we climbed went up to near a large off-colored roof. I led the second pitch left around the roof and then up and right into the grassy corner. Sounds like maybe you guys were farther to the left? Quote
lunger Posted August 12, 2005 Posted August 12, 2005 Yes, I believe we started left of you, but sounds like our routes intersected at the mossy corner. I wish we had Kearney's text at the time; we were running off my late and lazy handwritten notes from Beckey's 2nd edition. Sketchy info., said start was 100' E of SGC; our initial start was just R of the water streak. At any rate, your pic appears a compelling line! Quote
Farrgo Posted July 15, 2008 Posted July 15, 2008 Climbed this route yesterday. Came in from Teanaway. No crampons needed, trail is essentially snow-free until the glacier and Cascadian is about half snow. Missed the first pitch apparently. Climbed a very difficult, mossy straight-in finger crack but reached the base of the perfect corner just fine. The perfect corner is great but apparently Kearney put up the route with a 15m rope because we linked those three pitches into one pitch. Don't go too high on the corner, the crack ends and you'll be a long way up with no pro. P.S. there is a micro stoper and biner way up there if someone wants some booty. All in all the pitches near the corner are great and everything else is just so-so. Took doubles from green alien to red camalot and singles in blue alien, #2, #3, and #4 camalots. Seemed to be the perfect rack. Used just about everything each pitch. Quote
OrygunJim Posted July 16, 2008 Posted July 16, 2008 A few pics from our day out on the NW Face. Farrgo ropegunning. The perfect corner is just that, but only for 25m or so. The dihedral continues, but the climbing doesn't as the crack peters out. Quote
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