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If you can find a copy of "Mountain Fever" by Aubrey Haines, buy it! It has this story, as well as many other first-person accounts of early Rainier climbs. You won't be able to put it down.

 

Another book, that shares some of the stories in the above, is "Island in the Sky". I think The Mountaineers published it. Not as good, but it may be easier to find.

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