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Posted

I have a couple adventurous (stupid?, masochistic?) friends who are trying climb Judge Howay self propelled from Vancouver. They left on Saturday from Deep Cove and were planning on biking (with a canoe in tow), paddling (with bikes in the canoe) and slogging their way up the Judge, then reversing their trip back to Vancouver, returning next Saturday.

 

Any bets on whether they make it? Anyone see any crazy cyclists towing a canoe, or canoeists with bikes in the boat on the way from Deep Cove to Stave Lake?

 

For those of you with bivouac accounts, one of them is Damien McCoombs of Alpha by bike notoriety, and the other has been on a Meslilloet self propelled trip with Jason Addy. I don't think Jason has posted it on bivouac, but he finally made it up self propelled this past winter or the winter before.

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Posted (edited)

I got a scratchy phone message yesterday afternoon from the top of Judge Howay. Pretty cool that they made it up. Now they just have to make it back down. I think they can paddle down the Fraser on the way back, which should make things easier.

Edited by peas
Posted

Yes, we made it and we did paddle back down the Faser, which saved energy but not time.

We also climbed the South East ridge (just to climber's left of the Hanging valley route). Does anyone know if this route has been climbed before?

Karl

Posted

nice job!!!

 

The southeast ridge has not been climbed before on the south peak. I've been eyeing that route for a while. How was it? Details!!! I have to say the style of the ascent is impeccable as well. Congratulations!!! thumbs_up.gifthumbs_up.gifthumbs_up.gif

Posted (edited)

i was in a group of 3 this past weekend. We left town Friday at 8:15 and were in the water by 11am. The biking was uneventful although a bit harder for me as i was on a road bike with 35c tires.

 

we crossed the river on an inflatable raft. Our cord was 150 feet long, which we used to pull it back for each of us to get across. we forgot the paddle--oops, but used a long stick as a paddle. no prob.

 

The hike to base camp took another four hours--steep! the final bushwack down to the valley was brutal. i am supremely grateful to the person who flagged the route. awesome job. i do not believe we could ever have found our way through the cliffs without this flagging.

 

summit day was quite long as the snow below the hourglass had melted. in the hourglass itself we had to climb in the moat between the snow and rock. a little difficult but doable. thereafter there was snow until the summit pitch.

 

the rock to the summit was dry and easily simul-climbed.

 

 

 

all in all a great trip. very tough but the fine weather, outstanding views and good company made it worthwhile.

 

3460canoe_on_stave-med.jpg

 

3460tom_m_on_bike-med.jpg

 

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3460tom_k_in_the_bush-med.jpg

 

3460tom_m_climbing_hourglass-med.jpg

 

3460snowfield_near_summit2-med.jpg

 

3460tom_k_going_for_the_summit2-med.jpg

 

click on pictures for bigger version and captions

Edited by fern
Posted

Well it's nice to know our flagging is still there. We went in on the Easter weekend in 2003 to scope the route to the water platform so we wouldn't have to mess around to much when we came back in August. But the fire closure of the backcountry killed that plan and I haven't been back yet. I also cleared a path with my loppers as well, but I'm sure it's grown back in by now. It wasn't that hard to find our way to the water platform and I had planned on removing the Flagging as I received a little criticism for doing so.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Yes the flagging is there and definately this trip is not what is used to be years ago. I can just picture myself wandering desperately between bluffs trying to find a way.Buswacking thru the jungle, hanging of branches and helplessly throwing myself over slide alder.

My respects go to the people who had pioneered this route over the years.Yes, maybe the flagging should be removed to keep this jewel out of the hands of not worthy.

Although it is easy for me to say right now, since I climbed it.

  • 1 year later...

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