Dru Posted August 1, 2005 Share Posted August 1, 2005 Saturday: hike up to Angels Crest. too many parties in front at 10 AM. decide to do NN Arete instad. hike around. great adventure with trundling, mclane description is a bit unusual, but we more or less followed the line. expect some dirt. "birthing pitch" is hype, its just a chockstone. Sat night. bivi by the river. horrendous bugs. some guy and dog walks by at 5:30 or 6: AM to tell us "bears like to swim across the river and they will jostle you around". wake up in AM to find slug trails across my bivi sack. sunday. back to angels crest. arrive just in front of one other party, mark and chris. they pass us after angel crack. as it turns out, they arent really any faster so we run into them at every belay. ahead of them, and first on the route, is a horribly slow party of 3 - dad and son from edmonton, dad's girlfriend from vancouver. climbing one at a time and taking over an hour and a half per pitch on some pitches. oh for some bearbangers to launch off at them! my old friend dave and his wife show up behind us and join the traffic jam. i find a slug from last night has hitched a ride up the climb in my pack and it gets pitched off below the acrophobes. after endless waiting up the ridge, the party of 3 FINALLY traverses off into the gully just before the whaleback pitch. the rest of us sprint for the summit as it is now sunset... mark and chris arrive at the top first, leave us their headlamp at 8:45 PM and run down the trail. mer and i wait for dave and kristina and then navigate down the trail by the light of the borrowed headlamp to arrive back at the aprom parking lot at 11 pm, can you believe 13 hours round trip! it started raining heavily 5 minutes after we got back to the car. would have sucked to bivi up there. the party of 3 was never seen again and may still be pitching out 4th class chockstones in the north gully. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stemalot Posted August 2, 2005 Share Posted August 2, 2005 13 hours round trip! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted August 2, 2005 Author Share Posted August 2, 2005 no kidding.. i should change my user name to slower_than_you Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thelawgoddess Posted August 2, 2005 Share Posted August 2, 2005 13 hours? ouch. hope you enjoyed the climb anyway. i love that one! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stemalot Posted August 2, 2005 Share Posted August 2, 2005 (edited) I think the way to climbing AC fast is to bring a 30 meter rope and 8 pieces of pros. Use trees as natural pro. I think this is how I'll do it next time. Edited August 2, 2005 by Stemalot Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlpineK Posted August 3, 2005 Share Posted August 3, 2005 You started at 10 AM You gotta jump on that shit. CJZ and I did the route 2 weekends ago and we started at 7 AM. Also your camping choises sound dumb. I'll set you straight via PM. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.